Dragon*Con 2010: My Robots Are All Totally Skullfucked Edition

It’s August! That means the end of the summer build season, MIT’s Freshman Orientation, and most importantly, Dragon*Con, are all coming up soon.

In other words,

AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

D*C’s Robot Battles has been my annual robot party since 2002 when I first began spectating (and 2003 when I began competing). I’ve tried to go every year possible – 2007 was the big exception because my very own freshman orientation trapped me on campus then. I’ve always enjoyed the atmosphere of the event moreso than most other competitions just because it’s so not serious business. It’s a primarily sumo and show-off event because of the limited audience protection, at least for the 12 and 30lb class events – even more tame than the NERC Sportsman class I entered Überclocker and Cold Arbor in for Motorama. The event is seriously almost as old as I am, and it’s always been like that.

So now… speaking of Clocker and Arbor, how are they doing?

Yeah… about them robots

That doesn’t look too good. The bots have all been sitting, piled on top of my cart of miscellany, since February. They’re relatively undamaged as far as active combat robots go, but Moto took its toll on the drivetrains. I went through 4 and a half gearboxes at Moto, running through all of my spare 24:1 drill gears. After Arbor was eliminated from the competition, I harvested its gearbox parts to keep Überclocker running…but not for too much longer.

Long story short, Arbor has 1 semi-working drive side and Clocker has zero.

cold arbor

Here’s Arbor after retrieval from the cart skydeck. Past the drivetrain (or lack thereof), it’s also been the subject of parts harvesting. I think I’ve stolen the two Dimension controllers (which were briefly used to run Segfault), the Spektrum receiver, and the 5 volt BEC out of the electronics bay – those are all scattered about MITERS and so need to be retrieved or replaced.

One of the issues I intend to address is the front frame assembly. First off, it’s physically bent about a degree and a half. Not much, but several of the braze joints in the bend region have failed and some of the sheet metal has become twisted. This was probably just a result of battle, but either way it’s unsatisfactory.

Much of this front assembly was designed using 5AM Joltgineering™, therefore structurally unsound. I want to do a better job making it stiffer, so the plates may be recut and rebrazed.

Gearbox issues aside, I’m otherwise satisfied with the drivetrain. The oversquare wheelbase and central mass location means that Arbor actually handles very well. The drive is fast, but the super-soft McMasterBots wheels were grippy enough to avoid uncontrollable sliding. I’m also satisfied with how the Delrin hubs have endured in the front half of the drive.

Comparatively, ‘clocker handles like a total brick since all of its mass is in the rear 33% of the robot.

But I’m extremly dissatisfied with how the whole swinging saw assembly is mounted. If you call, several months ago in the last Arbor update before the Motorama update I never wrote, I said:

However, this was the first time that I discovered that Arbor would never work as I anticipated in its currrent configuration.

I was referring to this. In what must be yet another symptom of 5AM Joltgineering™, I somehow made the entire 14 pound swinging saw pivot off the front sheet metal assembly. As in, everything. All moment loads, all bending, and all shocks were transmitted through the beefy 3/8″ aluminum saw pivot mount…. right into the 1/8″ aluminum plate in the front. The above picture shows the “load triangle” pretty well.  One point of the triangle is located at the left side by the actuator trunion screw, and the other two are effectively shared by the two cap screws from the right side (front) and the screws on the top and bottom, which… happen to be missing, and probably were all through Moto.

From a Course II standpoint, this assembly is one giant piece of unwanted flex. It became very clear during Moto (and during testing) that the entire saw was prone to pulling itself into the material (or opponent) and becoming stuck hard simply because the whole frame twisted several degrees due to the torque of the worm gear drive.

My plan for redressing this problem is to make the saw’s structural loop much larger. Effectively this means swapping actuator positions – placing the saw actuator at the back end of the robot and the claw actuator where the current saw actuator is.

The light red, green, and blue lines indicate where the current structural loop of the saw lies, and the dark shades show where it should lie after modifications. The bigger the loop, the more the structure can resist torque about the orthogonal axis (in this case, the direction of saw rotation). But because I’m keeping the green line a constant length, I should have the same “swing” of the saw available.


As long as I’m wailing on the saw assembly, I might as well talk about Deathrunner. It’s been shiny, menacing, powerful, and reliable, but Deathrunner is going to be replaced with something else for D*C.

But why? Well, Deathrunner weighs 4 and a half pounds, was wound somewhat hackishly (the number of turns and wire fill percentage is a total waste of the stator), and hangs awkwardly off the saw arm. Even worse, it’s sensorless. Now, I could very well add sensors, but then I run into the problem again of not having a sensored controller powerful enough to feed it – no amount of DEC modules will drive this thing. I noticed that the sensorless controller had problems keeping up with sudden changes in the motor speed, such as those caused by the saw biting something.

Overall, the weight could be better used by a short Magmotor (!) or something similar. It’s much easier for me to control a DC motor, and I don’t have to worry about its transient response.

For now, the candidate motor is a big DC brush motor about the size of the classic Mini-EV. It otherwise seem to share all the MEV’s charactistics, such as being fast and obnoxious. Since it IS a fast motor, I might put one stage of “pre-gearing” on it by harvesting parts from one of several junked industrial planetary drives I have in the cruft pile.

überclocker remix

Poor Überclocker.

Being 1 event older than Arbor, it’s more beat up. A few things are bent, screws are missing, and there are little saw nicks all over the place from Freakin’ Enforcer, but fortuntely the major structural components are still sound.

Again, the number 1 issue is the drivetrain. More precisely, it’s the lack of one. A combination of “DeWalt motor into Harbor Freight drill gearbox” and battle impacts destroyed both gearboxes. At the event, I pulled parts from Arbor to keep them running, but ultimately Clocker lost out of the tournament by virtue of not being mobile enough to attack anything.

Besides the gearbox, the external portions of the drive have been flawless.

Well, most of it. This right side has apparently been gimpy since fight #2 at Moto because the internal binding screw backed out, so the standoff went all over the place. In the grand scheme of things, an easy fix.

I have about this much space if I want to switch to a stock solution like the Magnum 775 motors (which actually seem to be a bit too long). If I want to keep the current drill gears arrangement, I’d have to return to 550 motors because I’m out of 15-tooth pinions for 24:1 drill gearboxen. That would be a pretty stiff power and thermal mass sacrifice that I don’t feel like making.

Or I could keep fucking around with drill parts. A while ago, I posted some information about the 3 speed DeWalt (read: legit) drill gearboxes to Delphi Robotland, including a gear ratio count and pictures of all the stages.

With some crafty adaptation of the 2nd stage gear carrier’s sun gear, I could use the first two stages as a 17:1 planetary gearbox that has bigger and meatier and more gears than the comparable import-class drill. I started thinking about it, and hopped into Inventor to model some of the major components.

Here’s a preliminary layout showing some of the changes to be made to the parts. The sun gear will be turned down to a 14mm stub shaft, which will ride in a 14x20x12mm needle roller bearing. Its center is bored out to 12mm.

The first stage ring gear with the weird wavy flange remains as the first stage ring, but I intend to machine off the weird wavy flange to save on diameter. The second stage ring gear (the one with the dog clutch teeth that are unmodeled above) will remain the same.

All the ring gears will be heat-shrink-fitted into a custom aluminum casing…

…which looks the same as the current Clockerbox, and is made from the same 2″ square aluminum.The difference is that now the motor mounting plate is actually a plate instead of, say, the entire back half of the gearbox. It makes things a bit easier to manufacture.

The output gear will be the same one on the robot now, and will ride on a short chunk of 12mm drill rod shoved into the bore of the former sun gear, and with a Double-D profile machined into one end to simulate the old Clockerbox output shaft.

Dropped in place…

This new assembly is about 0.1″ longer than the current motors, which is an acceptable change.

I might switch Clocker over to the same kind of McMasterBots wheels that Arbor currently uses. It doesn’t hurt to have more traction on the D*C stage, especially since going from 24:1 to 17:1 is going to boost the robot’s top speed even more.

Here’s where I get to find out if my robot driving skills have faded any from the 2003 Test Bot 2.0 days.

While I have the gearboxes designed, I’m debating whether or not it’s worth just going with the 775 gearboxes because they are a stock solution – that is, I don’t have to build them. It’s mostly a matter of cost versus time spent – I could buy the 4 gearboxes (assuming Arbor also needs a pair) for $400 or so, or build two FrankenWalts for virtually free, and if necessary, two more for about $100.

It comes down to do I think I can get them done in under approximately 32 hours because my time is apparently worth about that much this summer.

Cold Arbor: The Last Update

This will be the first half of two posts that will wrap up Cold Arbor’s build as well as sum up the robots’ performance at Motorama 2010.

The last two days before departure was spent seeking waterjet service for the custom sprockets and wiring up the robot with all the electronics. I ended up getting the sprockets cut about an hour and a half before we left for the event!

First off, electronics. Here’s the beginnings of Super Deansbus™ for Cold Arbor. I favor Deans (style, as half of these are knocks) connectors for their modularity and simplicity. Each actuator or major electrical subassembly gets its own tap off the Deansbus. It’s not as appendable as a terminal block or legitimate like a DIN rail distribution bus, but does this bot look like it has the space for a DIN rail?

Wiring begins on the other side with the installation of the Deathrunner controller and Victor drive ESCs.

Since Überclocker is hogging all the Victors which have boosters installed internally, I made a ghettobooster for the Spektrum receiver for Arbor. This is just two sides of a 74HC14 hex inverter chip. Each signal goes through two inversion stages so the original pulsetrain is recovered, but buffered to 5 volts, to the Victors’ liking.

I re-wrapped my spare 7S A123 pack since the heatshrink was becoming torn in places. I elected to use soda bottle armor for this pack after (finally) remembering that it exists.

For future reference, a 2 liter soda bottle is excellent hard-shell heatshrink for battery packs. They’re thin-wall polyethylene, but contract to become rather thick, and when cooled down, are practically plastic cases for your battery pack.

Remember the Ghettobooster? Turns out that it wasn’t necessary. My two Victor 883s didn’t want to talk to anything. Boosted or not, 5 volt native or not. Through discourse with my peers who also have had 883s lose their heads, the optocouplers were probably damaged. Since they were buried under layers of silicone potting compound, repairing on the go was essentially ruled out.

Uh oh. Thus began an epic Victor-hunting quest to find two working controllers for the bot. I went as far as to get a friends’ help to scour the Graveyard of MIT FIRST Robots, knowing they all used the same controller type. Alas, all the fresh ones had already been stripped, and the only finds were ancient Victors, at least from 2002 or earlier. Which, as I found out the hard way, were not rated for 24 volt operation.

They started to smell weird, so I stopped before permanently breaking something.

I had this extra fifth controller which was purchased with a damaged case.  Initially, I stripped the case, then put it away and forgot about it. It powered right up and even accepted signal.

I also had one Victor HV on standby from Überclocker.

So, decision time… Swap out ‘clocker’s Victor HV and run a matched set? Unfortunately, it was buried in pretty deeply, and I didn’t want to risk damaging a full working bot.

And so that is how Cold Arbor got one shady junkbin Victor 883 (placed into the pristine case of a signal-deficient unit) and one Victor HV. The difference between the two is amazing. The 883 has a 10% minimum throttle deadband, but switches at around 2,000Hz. The HV has a tighter deadband, but runs only 120Hz. Every time it starts, the whole bot resonates.

After the Vics were wired, I put in the upper control deck. It’s a single 1/8″ aluminum plate which has mounting holes for Dimension Syren 25 ESCs. The controllers will use the plate as a heat sink.

One controls the clamp motor, the other controls the saw actuator. I made sure the gaps in the plate were such that I could still access the Victors’ screw terminals.

The calibration button, on the other hand… Yeah, let’s not talk about that.

An overview of everything wired up and ready. Arbor was just missing the four D-bore sprockets at this point.

I tried test driving the robot in this state, but with much of the robot’s weight up front and the front wheels not being driven, it just sort of awkwardly castered around everywhere – not really driving.

At about 4PM Friday afternoon, I finally had a chance to get some machine time, and quickly popped off the drive sprockets. I chamfered them out on a belt sander and quickly tossed them on the robot. It was the smoothest installation ever, since I had oversized the sprocket bores and purposefully undersized the hub diameter.

I’ll have to remember to keep doing that. The sprockets are aluminum instead of steel but…. who really cares?

I forgot to take a picture of the drive chains installed until after I already loaded the bots up, but… here’s a picture of the drive chain. Installed. You know, between two sprockets.

Here’s the result of some late-in-the-day testing!

That’s the actuator chain lying on the ground, very bent and broken. And a pile of saw chips from the wooden 4×4 that I cut up with Arbor.

I neglected to check how far the saw actuator’s mounting screws stuck into the gearcase (or would it be the chaincase here?). Because the chain was a short run, and thus untensioned, it some times jammed and locked up against the protruding screw threads. When this happened with the motor running at full tilt… well, the master link explodes in spectacular fashion.

The solution was just to grind down the screw thread length a little, and also round the end off. I threw on a new master link and the actuator worked again.

However, this was the first time that I discovered that Arbor would never work as I anticipated in its currrent configuration.