The Belated Equals Zero Christmas Special: Restomodding a Tomy Omnibot and Vintage Futaba AM Transmitter

Here’s a funny little side road I went down over the course of the 2020-2021 holiday season when nothing was open, nothing was shipping even if it were open, and I had otherwise nothing build-wise going on. It was a good trip back to the days when I did these little hacky things more often, building and making something without really a purpose except to see it happen because it needs to happen. Even better that I ended up with a mobile, displayable simulacrum of the current trendy 80s-90s nostalgia that has fully engulfed pop tech culture.

It all started during one of my random van adventures (of course) up to North Georgia. Having passed a lot of what I call “knick knack stores” on the way to and from the Blue Ridge and Smokies, I decided one weekend to just spend my time perusing their wares.

You know what I mean – the “antique markets” and “junk stores” that pepper state highways and county roads, well outside of metro areas. I’ve some times collected vintage tools or neat mechanical things from them.

But this little place on the side of Highway 515 was special. That’s because when I walked in, this thing was just sitting right there on the main display counter:

What is that!? Well first of all, it’s a Dr. Inferno, Jr. After that, it’s a Tomy Omnibot, one of the outfalls of the 1980s robot toy craze after the first microcontrollers became economical enough to put in (at least high end) toys. This was, it seems, an over $1000 (in modern dollars) toy back in the day, and it had all the 80s computer trappings – a tape drive that you could record movements onto and play back, for instance.

There was no remote or other documentation or original packaging to go with it. Without the paired remote, there wasn’t really anything it could do besides “Be Collectible” which isn’t really my thing. I thought “Well, I already have several 80s vans, so why not add an 80s robot to the mix”? The thought popped into my head then that it would be fun to drive around at shows and meets, like #RadwoodBait but for robots.

And so this is the story of how I turned this Omnibot and a vintage AM radio into a contemporary dance duo that never actually was.

There’s really two independent parts to this story: The AM radio conversion, and the buildout of the robot itself. I feel like the radio conversion is actually the neater technical contribution, but nonetheless, here’s the index:

1. Repairing and Upfitting the Omnibot

2. Converting the T4NL AM 4-channel radio to a 2.4Ghz 7-channel radio

Fixing up the Omnibot

I heard lap belts in the back rows are no longer the recommended way to keep your children safe in the car.

Anyways, besides the Omnibot, I also picked up a few old knick-knacky tools, including the pictured brass hammer for the Master of Benches.

The robot itself was in good shape – it had one of the arm guide links broken off at a plastic boss, and the wheels were missing small chunks of tread. Nothing major exterior-wise besides a few blemishes. The drivetrain took a little bit of wiggling to become ‘unstuck’, frozen grease and grunge if I had to guess. Much like my M.O. with vans, if it’s vaguely robot shaped at all, I can probably get it to drive.

The back lid pops off with a screw to reveal the battery bays. The main battery for the drive system and lights was a 6V sealed lead acid battery (which is long dead). The ‘computer’, timer, and tape deck were seemingly operated from 3 volts of AA batteries, the terminals of which were also long corroded off.

It’s a bit gross everywhere, like it clearly sat in a basement/attic with bugs for years. At each juncture I took the opportunity to try and get the detritus out with some bleach wipes and rubbing alcohol.

This thing actually pops apart very quickly once the six or so screws holding the body together are removed. There’s a LOT of what appears to be hand-wiring inside. I can imagine the assembly line for this thing being a jig holding all the body pieces in position as technicians install the wiring, and then the whole thing is closed up.

More corroded wiring and bug detritus abounded inside the shell. How’d y’all even get inside?!

To my dismay, the arms were not motorized. They’re all held in place by friction washers backed by springs. I was at least expecting the shoulder to be a lifting axis or something, as that’s all you’d really need to make the thing more animatronic. Alas!

Maybe this can be a future upgrade path if I choose to dive in further – adding an arm axis that never was!

The shoulder joint in particular is a mounted on an insert in the main body and has a set of O-rings to give it some more friction over just the spring loaded washer.

Two follower linkages keep the forearms parallel; one of these, as you can see, broke off its stud. It didn’t affect the operation all that much because there were three others, especially the one on its same side. I’ll likely just epoxy this boss piece back on.

As I was taking all of these joints apart, I was also cleaning up any worn plastic debris (powder) and then lubricating each joint with silicone grease as I was reassembling it. The grease didn’t make each joint looser so much as less grindy and prone to squealing.

This is what each arm looks like once disassembled. The claws are also unpowered, and just have a open and close lever that snaps the ends apart or together. I could see this end having a small servo embedded in the wrist joint to pull on this lever, if I went the full animatronic route.

I decided that the most immediately helpful replacement for the 6V lead acid battery was a 6.6V bank of A123 cells! Conveniently, two cells in a row was basically the same width and height, so this was a no brainer.

I whipped up a quick battery pack using the original plug cut off from the lead-acid battery, and a repurposed 3 pin servo connector as a balance tap connection so I can throw it on one of my 2S dedicated mini-chargers.

To get the bot base driving independently of the onboard controller, I decided to embed two of my leftover Vex 29 ESCs into the motor power path. This meant I had to tap power from the main board, and it was actually pretty nontrivial to find where.

Unlike most new PCBs, there’s no obvious “power bus” because the components are all through-hole and the power has to snake around to get places, using jumpers. I had to follow the original power input wire around on the board until I found where on the multi-position switch terminals it ended up.

Now when I turn the robot on, my newly appended JST battery lead gets power.

I had these de-husked Vex 29s left over from beetleweights of long ago, either Colsonbot or the first Stance Stance Revolution. They’re still my go-to for “Random small bidirectional DC motor driver that doesn’t need more than 12 volts and like 2 or 3 amps”.

The wiring was deceptively simple here. Because the receiver needed power as well, I just stuck the battery connector through a servo connector conversion into the receiver. The Vex ESCs are supposed to receive power and signal through that same connector. It’s only 6.6 volts anyhow!

(I’ve done the exact same thing for Stance Stance and Colsonbot, mind you. The receiver’s power trace is thick and short enough that on the order of single digit amps isn’t a problem)

I’ve closed the robot itself back up now after polishing the dome a little to get rid of blemishes.

For extra cheekiness, I gently peeled the original label off the lead-acid battery and then applied it to my newly made pack!

Converting the Futaba Conquest T4NL Transmitter

Here’s what I think is the bigger meat and thicker potatoes of this little holiday boredom project. A long (long) time ago (in a MIT far far away, at least now it is!) I collected a box of cruft which had a Futaba Conquest T4NL transmitter in it. It hailed from the era of “boxy and chrome” transmitters, and I always figured one day I’d shove a 2.4Ghz radio into it as a restomod. This was probably at least in the 2010-2011 timeframe, and it traveled with me through my multiple great cruft moves.

Well I think finally it’s time to do it! The idea came to me immediately when I brought the Omnibot home.

Like the Omnibot, it was in good mechanical and cosmetic shape, even if the batteries were long missing.

The radio of choice I was going to swap in is the “Microzone MC6C“. It’s one of many lower-end market 2.4Ghz basic model radios hailing from the vast ungoverned high seas of Jack Ma. I originally picked up two last year when I was putting Trashcopter together, since I wanted to see what the evolution of cheap radios has been like over the past roughly 10 years since I’ve owned two HobbyKing T6Av2s (which are still working, mind you, and exist for sale still!)

The upside of this MC6C radio, which made me select it over just getting another T6A/CT6B model to use as the transplant, was that it had mixing and servo reversing switches right on the front panel, something the FlySky/Hobbyking radio lack.

I’ve always been annoyed that you had to use a computer and USB programming cable along with a horrible VB6 application (or an open source one like DigitalRadio) just to do servo reversing – like mixes I can understand, but that’s some serious cost cutting to not even put reversing switches in. I’m hoping that maybe my exposé about these will help push them a little more mainstream in the robot community as a starter radio or a “class set”, like we used the HobbyKing radios for back in the 2.007 days.

So I went ahead and cracked open the spare one. There sure isn’t much going on inside the MC6C compared to the old Futaba. Miniaturization! Push the problem into software!

On the left side of the Futaba unit is the “RF Module”, so to speak. The larger motherboard on the right performs the sticks to servo PPM encoding. That encoding is done by a dedicated IC, the OKI MSL9362RS, specifically made for 4 channels of digital proportional RC PPM encoding. The combined PPM signal is modulated with the 72 or 75mhz carrier that’s generated by the RF module, and off we go to the races.

Before I started unsoldering things, I decided to do a little poking and prodding with the MC6C. See, there were unpopulated connectors inside on the main board, and unpopulated connectors mean “expandable features”. I figured I would see if the radio could be capable of more. By following traces, I determined that the unpopulated connector was an unimplemented Channel 7, and that it was 3-position (or potentiometer) capable, even. This was confirmed by putting a servo on the receiver’s Channel 7 as I fiddled the contact with tweezers.

I determined at this point that my plan of attack was to go a lot more in depth than the usual “Old Radio Revival” which seems to largely entail putting a modern radio’s RF module’s PPM input on the PPM output stream of the old radio. That would limit me to 4 channels only because of the fixed-function ASIC handling the encoding.

With the T4NL’s chassis containing a whole lot more holes than it actually had buttons and switches (as the same chassis would be used for several different models, such as 6, 7, and 8 channel ones, with dual rate settings or other functions), I decided to do it the hard way and fully embed the now 7-channel MC6C control board and transplant all the switches over, to make a retro 7 channel radio!

The problem to solve now was to decypher the wiring of the potentiometers that make up the joysticks. There was an additional complication, too. The MC6C is a modern computer radio and has digital button trims (click the button, move the servo center a little, save it in flash). The Futaba T4NL had analog trim potentiometers.

Separate ones, even. Most cheap radios that still have analog trims just have the potentiometer body on the trim lever so you can manipulate it separately, but it’s the same pot. This thing, however, had the separate potentiometers on each channel feeding into an analog voltage summation circuit on the motherboard.

The dual row of resistors on the right near where the wire to board connector comes in is the voltage summation. Between the three resistors in each junction are four pads, making the four channel voltages. Through some poking and probing, I discovered values and voltage levels for this circuit while under operation:

I dunno who else would do this, but if I’ve learned anything from this website, it’s that someone else will. So here’s the handy dandy wiring guide I’ve made! It’s interesting to note that the servo reverser switches just flip the polarity of power supply to the channel in question.

The next step is going to be deconstructing the T4NL’s joystick circuit and making it compatible with the MC6C inputs.

So here’s the wiring cleaned up into something that’s spliceable. I’ve made a few wire jumps to power the pots from the same wire, for one.

The next step was to discretize the voltage summation circuit of the mainboard onto the joystick’s trim potentiometers. They now feed the main pot via a high-value resistor.

What this does is let the trimpots influence the voltage output, but not by that much because the main pots have a much lower resistance and dominate the output range.

Through some trial and error, I found that a 3.4K resistor piping the trimpot into the main potentiometer gave me about 20% adjustment range in the signal, which is more than enough as a “Trim” function.

So the “hard electricity bits” of this conversion are actually done. By this point, I had 4 channels of joysticks which had known voltage output ranges.

The next steps were largely mechanical integration. I decided to take a hint from the T4NL case and stick the servo reversing switches out the back of the transmitter (Those 4 little slots were their locations). This area would interfere with the sticks, though, so I decided to hang them out of the battery compartment since I was planning on using a much smaller lithium battery.

The cut was made with a Dremel and a regular carbide burr bit in multiple passes to slowly whittle the line down further each time, until it broke through.

The MC6C reverser switch board used to be attached to the main board using some rigid standoff pins. Because of their move to the back of the radio, I replaced these pins with some jumper wire so they can make a 180 degree turn and fold over.

A little 3D printer nugget will hold the top of the MC6C board level, and its bottom will sit against the former telescoping antenna mount.

I also made two little nuggets to space the servo reverser board apart from the battery compartment’s rear panel. It turns out the switches stuck out really far into the battery compartment if I didn’t. This spacing gets them basically flush with the underside, enough to still manipulate.

See? As another cheeky relabeling, I removed the servo/mixer panel sticker from the front and glued it to the backside.

At this point, I had the transmitter powered on for power testing. Everything seemed to check out, so it was safe to proceed with adding the additional channel switches in. However, what I found was that the servo centers and travels were way off. Obviously, there’s not going to be any guarantee the potentiometers are going to be the same value, or in the same position at all between two radios separated by around 2.5 decades.

Here’s what the final integration looks like on the inside. I ended up removing the board spacers for the servo reverser board and letting the switches stick out again, after finding that it interfered with closing the case all the way. I transferred the switches from the MC6C case, and added a third 3-position switch. Maybe in the future this would be my flight mode select switch if I made some kind of retro-drone.

My last “Hmmmmm” moment was trying to sort out the stick calibration problem. What would I do if I were the enterprising managing designer/engineer of a board that had to take four analog inputs from potentiometers which weren’t guaranteed to be 1. in the exact same center position once mounted or 2. give the exact same range of travel, and 3. can’t be tested and calibrated individually for assembly/expediency reasons?

I’d make the final assembled device capable of running a calibration. My more expensive radios have this as a function, selectable from the questionably designed UI of the LCD screen. But what are the chances the MC6C just has a “Hold this button or close this jumper to run a stick calibration”?

100%, really. I noted a set of mystery jumpers when I first took the thing apart. At the end of the day, you want the factory calibration method to be accessible and easy to use for the assembly workers. A single big 0.1″ jumper is pretty damn out of place given everything else on this board is small surface-mount components.

So why not. I plopped the jumper in and booted the thing up. Immediately, it went into a flashing and beeping mode, which is obviously special. I swirled all the sticks and switches around a few times and left the sticks and trims centered, then powered it off and removed the jumper.

And that was it. All 4 channels now gave the same outputs for my test servo.

To really sell the look, I reached out on the robot combat Facebook groups to see if anyone had in the depths of their cruft piles a “rubber duck” antenna for use with these old 72/75mhz systems. It turns out someone did, and it was glorious. It looks extremely period correct when off, but of course once I hit the power switch, the orange and blue LEDs of the MC6C control board shine through the old battery meter.

Of course, this antenna isn’t connected to anything on the inside. The MC6C has a small internal PCB antenna, which I dropped behind the mainboard once it was mounted in the T4NL chassis in the same orientation. On my other MC6C (used on Trashcopter) I actually unsoldered it and added an external WiFi antenna using an RP-SMA fitting.

And that’s how we got this seriously #RadwoodBait photo at the January “Not cars and definitely not coffee” show. I’ll just say that the Omnibot is excruciatingly slow outdoors – it’s a fine speed for a house toy, I mean, but it took a good long while to get anywhere out here in the parking lot of the mall.

Plans for this thing? I’m not sure If I actually want to go back and try to engineer a movable shoulder joint. While it’ll be neat and all, this is a very reversible hack and it’s nice to just have. This project will, for the foreseeable future, just live in the house and be a thing I can pull out and demo. When the Radwood events come back around, I’ll bring it by!

And We’re Back In Business! An Equals Zero Return to Form, or So I Hope

After much ado about a whole lot of things, this site is now at least in a working state where all my information is accessible… even if it doesn’t look quite all aligned, all my plugins are missing, things might not be in the right place, and so on. This website is still a van, just a newer one.

By the way, I noticed all of your 63 emails asking what happened to the site! Hell, I didn’t know people still had the patience to read blog posts in this era of Youtube subscriptions and TikTok follows. A lot of valuable info resides here, so I definitely had the incentive to get everything running again, just a matter of willpower (This will be a theme for this post…)

So I had to relearn a lot of “Internet Stuff” since the last real revamp of the site from 2009. The biggest challenge ended up being re-importing the database which actually dates back to 2007 (the earliest posts on this site now), which is why this site was a potato dealership for a few days.

First, I had trouble importing the 200-something megabyte database dump, and it took several retries in different browsers and different times of day. Not only that, but fancy hax0r Charles of 2006 named all of his WordPress databases fancy names, so the new WordPress install didn’t know ass from teakettle. Next, because all of my domains are now unified on one hosting account (Equals Zero Designs and Marconi Motors), I had to connect all the subdomain dots. I’ve also never seen cPanel in my life, despite it being available back then also – I did pretty much all of the setup and back end work through FTP and phpMyAdmin directly, so there was just button clicking to learn.

I’m still going from theme to theme, so the immediate appearance of this site might change in the next few days. I’m trying to keep it a dark and easily browsable theme. The one I have as of 1/11 also has a banner image like the previous rendition, but I haven’t reuploaded those yet. It also has a bad habit of displaying the past few posts all together making the front page infinitely long, and I have yet to find the setting for breaking it up into previews only! I also still need to get used to the visual editor that WordPress ships with now – I’m not a fan of it so far, since it’s more of a walled garden experience and it’s a little harder to use my historic file and photo structure. But alas, welcome to the Internet of Today.

Anyways, after all of my makeshift database adminning, here we are again – I’m sure I’ll make a post like this again in another 11-14 years. All of the old posts should be there, but I have not (and will not) check them for layout or importation mishaps, as I consider those pretty much static archives at this point. Look, my van posts are here for my own reference and that’s all that matters.

So! Onto the new content. Besides now the Summer of Ven and Overhaul 3 Design & Build series posts I need to backfill, there’s some new stuff in the pipeline because I will somehow always find new vans to work on. I’ll just add this to the “List of Things I Still Have To Blog About”. Here’s the short story of, I dunno, since late September or thereabouts.


You know what? I miss having my own drone. I keep working on everyone else’s drones, but I haven’t had one truly of my own since all the way back in the Tinycopter days. Back then, I had the audacity to code my own flight controller, but these days most of my work is integrating Arducopter and PX4, flight controller firmwares that are….. less haphazardly put together. With safety and what not. Somehow I’ve built dromes for many entities since then, including KIWI of course, and my current place of employ, but what measure is a drome engineer if he doesn’t have any of his own?

And so I went to pray at the Altar of Lord Bezos and visited the Oracle of Jack Ma. You know the adage “Buy right, or buy twice”? My take it on it is “Why buy right when you can buy very specifically wrong and buy a lot?” It’s like getting a 0 on the SAT, since you have to answer every question incorrectly and can’t just shotgun it at random. You have to specifically know what not to buy, so your pile of parts has a minimal chance of cooperating, maximizing your chances of failure but forcing an exploration of the tradespace into places no sensible engineer would touch. Long time readers will understand this is my M.O. for everything – I know what to do, so why do it when you can try something dumb since nothing matters and we’re all going to hell anyway?

As such, crafted out of a tote of deprecated KIWI parts and my robot electronics bins, helped along by some deconstructed Seg-baby packs dating back to 2015 (RIP seg-thing), and with the blessing of the lowest-priced drone parts AliExpress could provide, I present Trashcopter:

The least fine drome that money can maybe buy!

This thing is…. a drone. There’s nothing special about it. I just wanted a beater drone to fly when I felt like it. It works fine, I went through the usual setup and tuning and fine craftsmanship associated with putting a kit drone together, and it is still in one piece as of this writing. It can fly autonomous missions, take off and land itself, follow terrains and avoid (large, visible to IR light) objects, and do a barrel roll in mid-air once. (Okay, it was for a brief couple of hours not in one piece). It ain’t a Skydio II, it’s basically a potato someone threw very hard, very controllably.

I explored the sub-basement steam room of drone parts on this build by purposefully trying to sort by price lowest and free shipping. What I found is an entire under the fallen log ecosystem of used drone parts, selling motors and ESCs and subassemblies for $1-$5 apiece. As expected, I now own like 50 motors pulled from XiaoMi drones, and the ESCs that go with them.

The frame is the cheapest, most terrible DJI FlameWheel knockoff I could find. The finish is so ratchet that I had to deburr everything before using it (and correct some of the heatset insert work, and open up some of the PCB chassis plate holes…), but I also now have 6 frames worth of questionably molded nylon arms. I mean you should see the sink marks on these arms. What I’m saying is, I can build as many terrible drones as I feel like now, for less than the cost of getting parts stateside for one single functional unit.

I furthermore went shopping for the crappiest radio I could find – the “Can I find something even cheaper than the 4 channel HobbyKing 2.4Ghz radio?” and that result is sitting next to it, the “MicroZone MC6” series. Like Trashcopter, it is “An Radio”. It has all the right shapes and tchotchkes in the right places, and Doesn’t Not Work. Hell, it’s even 6 (secretly 7) channels.

The build report for this guy will expound more on the process I took to get the parts, exploring some of the parts themselves including taking apart the cheapo radio, and just generally show the setup of a modern-day Pixhawk and Arducopter based multirotor from end to end for posterity.

But that’s not all.

I hinted in the original Robot Trap House post that I had unfinished business in the sector of Very Lörge Dromes that I still wanted to explore and develop, but which wasn’t relevant to the KIWI business needs at the time. One of these in particular is my strong belief that the “One motor per prop” multirotor architecture doesn’t really scale to large, flying van levels. You CAN make it work, and many companies have, often at great expense of either buying or developing cutting-edge custom motors and materials for airframe and propellers.

That clashed with my general philosophy of “Don’t custom unless you want to make a project out of the custom thing”, and consequently the direction of KIWI, where every aerospace engineer we tried to hire dropped to the floor and foamed at the mouth as soon as they witnessed our extremely BattleBot-like building approach: COTS and easy sheet metal and extrusion weldments.

The magic sauce to me when it comes to electromechanical hardware startups lies not in exotic in-house cooked and served materials and genetically-evolved one-piece structures, but getting out into the field with a working, reliable robot in front of the customer and a practiced means of getting there many times. I’m a bad CTO – I don’t like technology.

So how do I aim to demonstrate an alternative? Well, I reached just a little bit back into history, like a few years, into the domain of the Variable-Pitch Multirotor. Also called “Heliquads” or “Collective Pitch Multirotors”, they trade a little bit of mechanical complexity (The collective-only rotor head) for, in my soon-qualifiable opinion, a broad increase in the maneuverability space and control bandwidth.

My still-in-progress entry into this design tradespace will be what I affectionately named “Wigglecopter“:

Yes, that is my dinner table. No, nobody ever comes over.

In short, for a minor increase in thrust for vehicle attitude correction, a conventional multirotor has to spin up and down the propellers. Your torque to inertia proportions really, REALLY matter. Everything needs to be as light as have as little MOI as possible, and your motors need to be as torque dense as possible, to get a high enough control loop bandwidth to keep the vehicle stable.

Conversely a VPM/CPM can issue corrections by adjusting the pitch of its propellers. Single-degree movements will induce variations in thrust corresponding to possibly hundreds of RPM of motor speed. There is a lot of literature in the advanced aerospace controls scene pertaining to these, and I’ll collate and dive into a few papers I’ve taken a liking to in its build reports.

I actually tried to buy one of these, as they were sold for a while in the Early Teenies by a few hobby vendors with models such as the HobbyKing Reaper 450, WLToys V383, and the CJY Stinger 500. They’ve pretty much all died out, so instead of hunting around for used or new-old ones, I decided the mechanical problem was simple enough to just put together and get the point across.

If you look closely, Wigglecopter is just made from the same pile of garbage that Trashcopter emerged from. I just ordered a few DJI F450 quad frame cards from Amazon to make it a quad, and had to gently re-engineer the motors to accept the collective pitch mechanism and propellers. I’m going to put some more legitimate gear into this thing from the flight control and sensing side, as I’d like for it to be a development platform.

Notice that it still does have four independent motors? Well, you can still do that with a CPM, provided you now keep the motor speed constant so your thrust output is not a multivariate surface of sagging motor speed and flexible propeller blades…. just one of them, as much as possible. I decided trying to make a serpentine belt drive was just going too hard the first time out, and will just bypass this issue with inertia rings pressed onto the motors if need be, and with the ESCs set to speed govern. We’ll see what it does!

My LTE plan for Wigglecopter is to finish and validate it, then start getting larger and larger. I’m going to need to modify the firmware a little for myself, as I would like to make a collective-pitch Hex and Octo down the line. Wigglecopter itself should be all done and ready this spring, and its bloodline is completely unplanned except for daydreaming of lifting Kei vans in the air.

Overhaul 1 Restoration

A very exciting new development in my life is that I now have Overhaul 1 in my possession again. In November, I made a speedrun up to Boston to collect the remainder of the several hundred pounds of life I left in the ol’ vape shop. At this point, I was able to extract Overhaul 1 from its dormant state. For the past few weeks, I’ve been going through it (there’s not much, mind you) and getting it back in running order.

There’s no intention of putting it back in battle except a few token matches with Sadbot, Overhaul 2, and Overhaul 3. Yes, somehow I will soon have four operational heavyweight Battlebots. It’s like vans, they just keep spawning. Everyone I know agrees that it would be incredibly funny if Overhaul 3 loses to every preceding generation of Overhaul. I mean, it’s never won against Sadbot, so this is a distinct possibility.

I designed up a retrofit for the drive motors on the shuffle pods, implementing a design idea we should have done but didn’t have the time to execute. Right now, the electronics bay is a small plastic tote bungee-corded to the frame, but I’m going to design up an integrated battery case and electronics deck so I can close it up. It won’t be as (unnecessarily) fast as it was before, as as a bot I’ll probably reserve for demos and showings only, doesn’t need to be anyway.

I also had to straighten out a lot of bent parts. You know what – my adventures in Big Chuck’s Auto Body came home to roost. There were a lot of fun rednecky processes involved in straightening the welded unibody-ish frame and the pointy plow.

So, hopefully Overhaul 1’s “Rebuild Report” will just read like one of my many other hundreds of “I fixed this stupid thing that broke because I was stupid to begin with” titles.

all of the ven are piles

As of right now, my entire treasure fleet is in disarray. While everybody runs and drives, I wouldn’t characterize any as “particularly competent”. It’s winter, and they’re not in danger of being towed or fined for the first time, so in a way this little return to form with me building robots again has been at the expense of the ven.

Why are they so derelict? Well, I think in part it’s due to me continually throwing them up and down mountains.

Now that I’m only about 3 to 4 hours from the very vannable mountain roads of northern Georgia and the North Carolina/Tennessee border, it means I go…

I’m the width of the road, I’m the width of the road, I’m the wiGET BACK IN YOUR LANE NOW


Look at that inside-front liftoff. Rear sway bar time?

…the time

I do think at least once every month so far I’ve ended up somewhere in the area with vehicles nobody expects to ever witness in general, much less on a mountain. I’ve gone with groups (typically composed of SPROTS CARS) and when I damn felt like it.

The downside is obviously that the exercise is very strenuous for tired old ven. Here’s the lockout tag captions for everything as it stands:


  • The entire exhaust path from the axle-clearing bend back fell off in late May when I was on the Tail of the Dragon. Yes, fell off. As in the person behind me had to dodge it. Straight-piping 3 hours home was hilarious, albeit dissatisfactory for hearing longevity. I replaced the exhaust in my first fully welded/fabricated custom exhaust job in June. In fact, look at it ratchet strapped to the roof rack above, as a victory trophy.
  • Complete front brake caliper and rotor replacement in November – it’s had one mildly dragging caliper for a while, and it was tolerable until some amount of smashing on the mountain caused it to seize even more.
  • Now it’s slowly leaking brake fluid from the master cylinder/booster assembly – while it stops fine, the fluid loss is gradual and both faster than I’m comfortable with and want to deal with the mess.
  • The power steering pump is now making absolutely terrific sounds and leaking at the shaft seal, so it’ll be on the chopping block for replacement.
  • There is a cable harness that the cruise control computer intercepts the transmission overdrive solenoid with which has failing pins. This has manifested in sporadic loss of 4th gear, meaning I’m either going 55mph tops or absolutely revving it flat out to hit 70. A kick or tug on the harness will often resolve it – I’ve tried various methods of biasing and restraining the connector pigtail over the past year or so, but outright repair/bypass is now a necessity because it’s getting too annoying.


  • Developed either a misfire or bad exhaust leak from the right cylinder bank, so while it will drive fine, it sure sounds like an old rattly diesel when it isn’t one (yet…). I’ll need to do a full heuristic debug before commenting on it more – it got worse lately as the weather cooled down.
  • It’s recently began emitting blue smoke out the exhaust intermittently. I’d attribute this solely to something like worn/crispy valve stem seals or sticky piston rings, but what was more worrisome is that the oil pressure gauge began to not register pressure. Now, in this era of Ferd, the oil pressure gauge appears to be a fake one – really an on-off scenario. I haven’t correlated the two symptoms by physically measuring the oil pressure yet, and really cannot say I’ve paid enough attention to said pressure gauge in months past for it to even have been symptomatic of anything. It could be a coincidence. Either way, out of an abundance of caution, I haven’t been driving Vantruck around the past few weeks.
  • Rear drum brakes have something going on, probably just excessive wear. If I set the parking brake, the rear brakes will drag for a while after releasing them. If I brake in reverse, then drive and brake forward, there’s a palpable clunk as something with just a bit too much slop pops back into position. Sounds straightforward, just willpower-limited for dissection.

Spool Bus

  • It came with a diesel leak around the left bank of injectors – old and crispy return line fittings, and the cold weather has made it worse to the point where I’d prefer not to drive it. Less due to the fire hazard and more because it stanks of diesel, costs me money by leaking it out, and is rude to others for leaving dribbles on the road. Willpower-limited repair, as I have the fittings and hoses sitting in it right this minute.
  • Thrashing about the mountains has caused a power steering system leak. I haven’t dug into it to find out where from, but it’s actually not from the gearbox itself this time (a known failure mode of many a Ford truck), so it’s probably a stiff hose or loose fitting. In fact, I had to abandon a day on US Route 129 a few months ago because the power steering leak became dramatically worse all of a sudden, a small puddle per power cycle. Luckily, the system was filled with transmission fluid and I had a quart to keep topping it off on the trip home.

You notice it’s all turning and stopping related problems, more or less? Well, in order to not fly off the side of a mountain, it’s imperative that you be able to turn and slow down. Vans, while imperfect at this, can be coerced into doing so somewhat gracefully, but they’ll only put up with it for so long.

Oh, yeah, where’s Murdervan? Spoiler alert – I sold it back in September after shoring everything up nicely and writing a Facebook ad that, in light of current events might get me Investigated. It was sold locally in-town to someone who seemed enthusiastic and knowledgeable of old Ferd diesel trucks, and will join a small business fleet that does urban gardening and landscaping work. A very fitting end to its brief story with me, as it was always just too normal for my misfits. I’m sure I’ll see it around the city more!

So there’s also a lot of Ven to write up, besides the Summer of Ven series itself. I better get used to loving this keyboard and its probable timely successor once the keys start falling off.

Cute little robots

A few weeks ago, I was skulking around knick knack stores in the farthest reaches of Georgia (my latest habit, finally checking out all those antique and flea markets I keep blasting by on the way back and forth from the Smokies and Blue Ridge). A lot of these stores have vintage tools and hardware, which I enjoy perusing. However, at one of them, I found this little guy:

That, if you’re not familiar, is a Dr. Inferno Jr. Well, not really. It’s a Tomy Omnibot, a little robot toy of the 1980s that was probably pretty badass for its time, being programmable via cassette tape and all.

Needless to say, I made off with it because hey, it has some relation to BattleBots history as well as the history of programmable smart toys. It was in good physical condition, though the proprietors said they couldn’t locate the remote control at the time but would keep mining their stocks for it.

Without the OEM remote, it seems rather static based on my research, and so I decided to perform a unique restomod. I’d do a mechanical repair and restoration to get it in driveable first, but I had an element I wanted to add.

That is an old Futaba T4NL Conquest I got for free at some Swapfest at MIT many moons ago, and have just had sitting in one of my Electronics Mystery Abyss totes since. What better to control your 80s robot with than an 80s radio!

What you can’t see from the outside is the MicroZone MC6 transmitter that I organ-swapped into the T4NL. Yup, I done did it – a restomod of the transmitter with a modern day, albeit potato, 2.4G computer radio. This was a fun adventure, and I think I approached it in a unique (but harder) way than just tapping the PPM summation point and feeding it into a 2.4G radio module. I fully embedded the MC6 using the original Futaba gimbals, added the MC6 servo reverser switches to the back side, and wired in new switches to turn the 4 channel T4NL into a full fledged 7-channel radio.

And of course, this photo of my 80s robot that I drove around with my 80s R/C radio was taken at a car show I took my 80s van to. This, as I called it on the Facesphere, is #Radwoodbait for whenever those shows come back up.

I’d definitely love to write up the whole restomod of both the Omnibot and the Conquest T4NL radio, because it was just a fun distraction project over the holidays when everything was closed and I didn’t feel like going outside.

Remember, even while I’ve refrained from fixing this web-van (HEHEHE WEBVAN) up to post content, I’ve been taking my usual excessive amount of photos of every step or interesting happening. The content exists, I just have to find the willpower to write it up – and I hope finally having the damn site operational again will motivate it.

Also, I have so much to remember what I named “Potato”…starting with the title of this site. I’ll take care of it soon, I promise.