RazErBlades: Completion and Deploy

I am satisfied.

To me, there’s no more magic in ultra-small mobility devices. Building the Death/RazEr/murderblades has shown that a handful of brushless DC motors and a lithium polymer battery is fully capable of pushing a passenger around at 10-12mph, which is a reasonable sidewalk speed. Extreme stealth is also possible –  RazEr was a miracle of packaging, but the skates beat it out by far in terms of volumetric component density. Additionally, I’m very satisfied with the way that the Skatroller turned out in terms of user interface – so much, in fact, that I might start making more vehicle throttles wireless.

Now that Otakon is over with, I’m going to start collecting more test data and video with other people who can actually wield the ‘blades and not look like dumbasses, unlike me. Anyways, here are the events of the last week or so.

After I left the remaining skatemotors on a shelf to set, I began completing the left motor driver board. It was fundamentally “done” weeks ago, but I never added motor connectors because of the lack of motors. On this board, I elected to discontinue using side-bullets and on-board mounted sensor connector. It was too difficult to maneuver the cabling in the tight space, and the large power wiring directly pulling on the board traces worried me. So this board uses sensor and power pigtails that extend outside the aluminum frame.

I put together the sensor pigtails using the same headers and 5 (originally 6) pin cable. A few globs of Goop sealed the electrical connection.

I had to flip the direction control pin on the left board also, since the motors were mounted oppositely to the right side and therefore wanted to run the left skate backwards. Unfortunately, there wasn’t an easy was to do this since the DIR pins were connected to logic ground through a circuitous (hurrr) trace that also hit several other pins.

Solution? Cut off the mating contacts of the signal header. I then hardwired the DIR pin to the DECs’ onboard 5 volt rail using 30 gauge wrapping wire.

After the board was assembled and installed, I gave both skate units a full charge. It was the first time the left skate had been charged period, since it was never used before this.

skatroller revisited

It was time to get started on updating Skatroller. For this version, I wanted to have control over the DECs’ output enable lines. The output causes the motor to brake if the commanded speed is less than the current motor speed. Now, the DECs aren’t actually regenerative controllers  or anything, but enabling the outputs while commanding zero speed acts as a dynamic brake. It’s just another added convenience if I want to limit speed, as this kind of braking will never actually bring the motors to a full stop.

I decided to use another sensor input instead of trying to calculate or design ranges of inputs for one FSR. Above is my spare FSR mounted in the original “wrist forward” position. The whole thing now acts sort of like a large rocker switch.

Additionally, I’ve elected to pitch an Arduino Nano on the board just out of convenience. It’s easier to read in two sensors and do whatever I want with the data using a microcontroller and some software (as much as I hate to admit it).

…but first I had to pre-cut all the fusible links in the Lilypad breadboard because they are the most annoying things ever.

I scolton briefly thought about connecting all the circular perimeter holes to alternating terminals of a METALPAKKK such that the sheer short circuit current would blow all the inter-pad links, but the setup for that would have taken longer than just going through them with a knife.

To facilitate alignment, I used a machine parallel as a straightedge to guide the +1 Exacto Knife of Trace Gouging.

I got a Lipower board from Sparkfun as a more efficient means of powering the Arduino and XBee stack. The Lipower takes the 3 to 4 volts of a single lithium polymer cell and outputs 5 volts. The Arduino uses the 5 volts directly and the XBee board internally down-coverts it back to 3.3 volts.

For simplicity, the Lipower board was double-sided-taped to the 900mAh lipoly cell through a layer of heavy heatshrink. On the other side of the battery, I stuck a piece of Velcro. The battery never sees any loads on its pouch surface, which is what I want.

I found these board standoff headers to connect the XBee board with the Arduino & glue circuitry below.

The arduino board  houses connectors for the 2 FSRs and the battery. It also has a small input RC filter for each FSR and another RC filter on a PWM pin of the Arduino to bring the square wave PWM back to an analog voltage. This is all shoved between the two header rows that the Arduino sits on.

Here’s the back of the signal processing board, showing my usual tactic of point-to-pointing with 30 gauge wrapping wire.

After verifying that the circuit worked, I coated the whole bottom side in a healthy layer of hot glue. After the glue set, the self-leveled surface got a chunk of Velcro attached to it so I can mount it to the wristpad.

And now here’s the whole rig mounted to the wristpad once more! No obnoxious LEDs this time around – the only indicator of power is the three little red LEDs, one on the Lipower board, the Xbee board, and the Arduino. The assembly is almost excessively stealthy, especially when hidden under the cavernous sleeve of my modified fuzz jacket.

The carrying case for the ‘blades was a recommissioned Facebook swag bag obtained at a career fair many moons ago. The skates sort of fit in perfectly side-to-side, and the wristpads filled the rest of the space. So here’s the final shot of them ready to travel.

I ended up not having time to replace the wheels with the harder compound K2 wheels, but that will happen later.

deploy

The Otakon deploy wasn’t particularly exciting since the convention center specifically banned wheeled vehicles inside and there was no planned photo shoot for the Air Gear series anyway. There wasn’t a good reason for me to just stay outside the convention center and orbit around on the streets more than once – which is what I ended up doing. So, the ‘blades were under power for maybe 10 or 15 minutes, then stored  back inside the rest of the time. They’re certainly stealthy enough such that I didn’t rouse too much attention. A few people “got it” because they were familiar with Air Gear (though not hardcore fans). Overall, in terms of outward appearance, the ‘blades aren’t very impressive. The engineering is mostly hidden inside.

Pics or it didn’t happen? I’m sure someone had pictures, but I kept my camera with me at all times, so I don’t have any voluntary pics of the whole setup. Overall, what the con showed me is that I’m too lazy to actually cosplay and too focused on building props and gadgetry that nobody at a pop culture convention or without at least some familiarity with engineering would care about.

But, as I said originally, now that the RazErBlades are fully functional, reliable, and require no particular explanation of quirks to operate, I’m going to lend them out to friends and peers who have a better handle on inline skating and possibly put up a few more demo videos later on. For now, however, I’m going to call this version finished. It’s always open to improvements in packaging, power, and usability, but it’s August already and Dragon*Con and my annual robot party are fast approaching.

Soo… what did I end up inventing? Air Gear or Jet Set Radio?

Hub Motors on Everything, Part II: RazEr rEVolution

One of the compliments that RazEr always gets is that the vehicle is so freakin’ small. Its outline is the very image of a stock Razor (™,®,©, what-have-you) scooter, and most people do not notice the hub motor until I show them. They tend to try to look under it or behind the rear wheel to see where the motor is. The other reaction I get is more along the lines of what the hell was that, aroused when I fly past a group of unsuspecting and well-meaning pedestrians.

Novelty value aside, the size of RazEr is also one of its worst flaws, and the biggest engineering headache. The stock Razor A3 frame is just small enough to not really fit anything. The latest iteration of the scooter actually featured a fully custom underside so I could put meaningful amounts of battery in. The addition of this drop-frame compromised the stuctural integrity of the scooter significantly. The motor width is constrained to fit between the existing forks, which puts a limit on how much torque it can physically make, as well as makes it a pain to service or remove.

Given that, what would I change if I could start from a blank Inventor file and design the scooter frame from the ground up, while maintaining the pudgy kick scooter look as much as I could?

Before I answer that, let’s go back in time a bit to see what necessitates this total redesign. In April, I “rebooted” RazEr from a state of suspended animation (and total motor wreckage). The 2nd iteration hub motor was pretty much totally destroyed, save for the stator, which I recycled back into version 3, the present one.

During what was supposed to be a routine test ride just a few days later, this happened.

D’ooooooohhhh.

At the time, I was purposely riding over rough cobblestone to see what would break first. I had expected that perhaps the bearings would crunch again, or I’d vibrate a magnet loose. It turns out that the whole motor shifted on its bearings (which means I did an excellent job making sure that bore was a press fit…), and the windings started running into the conductive aluminum side plates. This grinding caused several windings to short and burn out.

The arcing marks and smoke residue on the side plate is a giveaway as to the failure mode.

Afterwards, I hastily rebuilt the core using a spare harvested copier motor that had a stack 5mm shorter than the magnets in the can (-20% torque). I was out of 22 gauge wire, and only had 20 gauge, so I rewound the core using dual 20 gauge wire. The problem was that I could only fit maybe 18 turns on each tooth, which was significantly less than the 25 turns per tooth before – another loss of 33% or so. All things considered, this rebuilt core was complete shit.

Then I discovered during testing that I wired up the B phase backwards. So, I had to cut the termination and jump wires around until that phase was correctly hooked up again. The result after all this turmoil was a motor which looked like this:

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

Okay, so it actually worked just fine, despite being terrifying. The loss of torque was definitely felt during rides, when acceleration was weak and current consumption was much higher than before. The controller’s runup to full motor start took longer and was less consistent. Things got hotter.

I was pretty unsatisfied, but that’s how RazEr’s been for all of May and June.

RazEr rEVolution

Enough was enough. I’ve been brooding over the build of a fully custom scooter for a while now. It would address all the volume and rigidity issues of stock kick scooters, while fitting my custom designed components with no compromises. Specifically, tt would carry a much torquier hub motor and enough A123 DeWalt drill cells to match or exceed the watt hour capacity of the existing 5Ah lithium polymer packs. It would be more heavily built and stiffer.

Yet I’ve always put the idea aside when it came up because I figured it was more building than I actually wanted to do.

Well, forget that now, because I’m sick of bumming around with toys. And after building the \M/ETALPAXXX, I’m a little less averse to the idea of making more battery packs.

Let’s begin. I’ve titled this rebuild RazEr rEVolution because….

Because.

I always start with a very basic flat geometry study. Here’s the new frame at a pretty early stage. It’s still box shaped like the stock Razor A3 frame, and even has the front chamfer.

But what’s less visible just from a screenshot is the increased dimensions. The underbody is a full inch wider than a stock A3. The whole body, deck included is 2 inches thick (compared to around 0.75″ stock, and the 1.75″ depth of the appended underframe of RazEr).  This whole frame section measure 2 feet long from front to back, too.

Oh, and the wheelie bar is taller and more integrated. That’s important too, but basically, it’s what the A3 would be if it actually filled its outline instead of shrinking away from it in a cost-cutting induced anorexia.

Note the cutout in the top plate of the frame – this is to ensure available space to fit the 12S2P LiNP battery pack, which will clock in at a cool 38 volts and 4.6Ah.

Now I get to the fun part – laying out where the joints of the puzzle will go. I’m going to continue on my spree of tabs-slots-and-T-nuts construction, which ought to make this thing come off fast on an Awesomejet. The t-nut slots haven’t been placed yet in this picture.

I’m only designing the business half of the scooter. The front end will be a stock A3 steering neck and folding joint, since that has worked fine in RazEr from the very start.

One of the issues with mating your own back ends to existing front ends is the rigidity of the joint in the middle. Razor scooters are generally pretty well designed in this area, but once you append your own design to it, all bets are off.

To promote structural integrity, I designed in this 1/4″ nut plate in the dead space in front of the batteries. It has the stock folding joint bolt pattern in it, and is otherwise physically interlocked to the frame.

To address the whole “Hey, you’ll be stepping on your battery packs with that big cutout in the middle there!” problem, I’m going to overlay the frame with a nonstructural cover. The cover is shown rendered in carbon fiber, but that’s alot of fucking carbon fiber and I’ll most likely take the cheap way out of either 1) Garolite or 2) polycarbonate. Or the same sheet of 1/8″ aluminum if I’m that lazy.

Here’s the  side text, modified after insertion to be “waterjet friendly”. Closed R’s, A’s, and O’s just make for a n00bly mess when cut out.

The “EV” in “revolution” is cleverly capitalized to be clever.

new rimz… again

So the version 3 hub motor looks kind of cheesy in the screenshot of the new frame. It appears atrophied and undersized, kind of like putting 15″ wheels on a luxury SUV.

With the new frame width (three whole inches of between-the-forks space!), I’m definitely going to design a new motor to use it.

Here’s the tire!

It’s a 5 inch diameter, 2 inch wide polyurethane-tread, aluminum-core fork truck wheel from McMaster-Carr. Did I mention it’s 2 inches wide?

Originally a wheel investigation for BWD, it will now be used with the new new new! RazEr motor:

It looks like the V3 motor if I pulled on the ends really hard, and essentially it is. The one exception is the flanged endcap, which was a design investigation.

The stator will be 3 (count’em: THREE) stacked 67.5mm diameter, 17mm thick copier stators that I binged off Ebay a few months ago. The total lamination height is designed to be 46 +/- 1 mm, to account for lost laminations during the joining process.

That looks so much better. It fills the space like a giant custom hub motor should do. Now I’m talking like

Holy crap, what if this thing had HUB MOTORS in those wheels?

Of course, one of the hazards of designing your motor before you actually get ahold of the wheel to measure it is

…IT DON’T FIT.

The tread depth turned out to be shallow enough on the new wheel such that if I cored the thing out all the way to the rim (past the relatively thin web center), it would just fall right through my motor!

The wheel could be bored to a diameter of 3.6 inches, but the motor is only 3.25 inches at the threaded portion, and 3.5 inches at the flange. I designed it to use my existing Deathrunner and V3 motor stock, which is a 3.5″ steel pipe.

Great.

So here’s the 5AM hackaround… just shove that motor inside a plushy, shiny aluminum case. I ordered a 4″ diameter, 0.5″ wall aluminum tube to make the locking ring from anyway, and decided against ordering a huge 4″ steel pipe just to make the motor casing from. It would be unnecessarily heavy and would have taken very long to machine.

Instead, I could just chop a small section of the pipe I  had already and make it a magnet ring. From the 4″ diameter tubing would come the motor casing and side plates, as well as the threaded ring. The magnet assembly can then press or adhesive-fit into the casing.

The magnets were big enough this time (2 full inches wide, of course) such that it was out of the range of SuperdupermagnetGeorge‘s stock. I cruised the intertubules for a while, and settled on Applied Magnetics and their 2″ x 0.5″ x 0.125″ N42 chunks. A Gobrushless calculation shows that these are an optimal fit.

With the side plates, tire, and threaded ring loaded in, the whole thing looks ridiculous.

I went back to the cross-drilled holes method due to familiarity. I had 17 cap screw on that flange at one point in time (because more cap screws makes a project more hardcore), but fortunately returned to sanity just long enough to realize that I would only have the patience to machine 9 of them.

So there are nine.

And now the whole assembly slammed onto the chassis model. I’m essentially going to be riding a small steamroller.

preliminary calculation

Let’s plat the nibbler game with the most recent dimensions. It’s a crude, unsound, faulty, but convenient way to ballpark the torque production of a BLDC motor. The dimensions are:

  • N, turns per tooth. I’ll use the (v2, working) RazErmotor number of 25 turns per tooth. Assuming I wind all the teeth, it means 8 are active at any point in time. Each tooth contributes two runs through the magnetic field, so the total number of “active passes” is 8 * 2 * N, or 400.
  • B, the magnetic flux density in the motor, in Tesla. Essentially “strength of magnets”. N42 magnets have a surface Br rating of 13,000 Gauss (1.3T). Add in the airgap factor t / (t + g) where t is the magnet’s thickness (1/8″, i.e. 3mm) and g is the airgap length (designed to be 0.3mm, but I more realistically shoot for 0.5mm), and the reuslt is Br * [t / (t+g)] for 1.1T in the airgap.
  • L, the active magnetic length of the motor, which is the stator height: 45mm, or 0.045 meters.
  • R, the active radius of the stator, which is 33.75mm, or .03375 meters.

The motor constant Kt is then really roughly 400 * 1.1 * 0.045 * .03375 = 0.668 Nm/A. That’s almost absurd, and is probably 33% or so higher (via past experimentation) than what it will end up being.

Still, that’s insane. RazEr’s v2 stator had a measured (not roughed out) Kt of 0.25 Nm/A. By direct scaling of the stator length, i.e. if I stretched that stator out to 45mm and kept all other parameters the same, it would have a Kt of 0.45 Nm/A. I suspect this is a more realistic number.

when do i get to ride it???

I ordered everything yesterday, scheduled for easy-peasy laid-back ground shipping. This means I can probably start plugging on the motor right after Otakon concludes (and the August robot season begins). Look out for this thing at Dragon*Con in September, since it’s small enough to throw into the same box as the robots.

Knowing me, though, I’ll just blitz the entire frame on Monday and shove the existing RazEr motor in there.