A Slightly Less Sculpture-Like Quadrotor

Greetings, Internets. What’s the deal this time, I can’t even finish something before it goes live?! Anyways, to answer pretty much all questions about why the thing may or may not work, here’s a nice little video.

That’s right, it wiggles. Having no left-handed fans (ball is in your court, Hobbyking!), I could either use movable vanes or fixed angularly mounted fans to cancel the resultant torque from everything spinning in one direction. And by Robot Jesus if I’m going to have to mount something cockeyed or make something motorized and adjustable, I’m gonna do both of it at once. Hence, 1 dimensional thrust vectoring. Would that be like, thrust scalaring or something? The controlled wiggling should also let the vehicle translate and rotate without requiring thrust differential – it’s pointing the exhaust opposite the direction it wants to move the most in. This is the riskiest part of the whole project, and I am itching to see if it even makes sense.

As the video shows, the electrical system is now fully wired up and ready. I spent the evening coding up a storm, getting some basic running code completed that lets me test the  servos and determine their correct directions, and also calibrate the Turnigy S100A-HV controllers in software (as opposed to me twiddling a stick).

This is the primary wiring for one side. I ended up ditching the switch-in-the-middle idea after determining that the channels of the HK Quattro battery charger which charged the “high side” battery pack would also be mistakenly supplying power to the controllers. To eliminate this problem, I’d either have to add a second switch (pointless) or isolate all the battery charger channels from each other.

Turning the Quattro from a single 4-channel charger into four isolated one-channel chargers takes a little bit of trace-cutting and the result needs 4 independent isolated power supplies, like laptop or monitor brick adapters. It’s been done before on the Jedboard project, with a different model, but the Quattro isn’t that different. I’ll throw up some details on it later after my aforementioned laptop power bricks arrive.

Once I decided to go with the four channel isolated charger route, I wired up the power normally – the master switch governs the positive battery rail only. There are two switches on my switch panel, and the little one is a “precharge bypass” for the larger. Flipping this switch on before the larger key switch powers on the logic and also connects the controllers to the battery through a 10 ohm power resistor, letting the capacitance fill up slowly (instead of stepping from zero to 40 volts instantly, which would theoretically result in infinity amps). I decided there was enough bus capacitance involved in this whole system to warrant a precharge circuit.

I whipped up a quick charger panel with Deans connectors. The “isolation required” notice is just to make sure I never try shoving all the leads into eachother. There are no cell balance connectors here, though the packs have them; I’m going to balance the cells on a need basis only.

There was really no “signal wiring” to speak of for this build – the signals just plugged into eachother. In the center of the show is a 2.007 Arduino Nano incubator board, which was custom-made, custom-paid, and cuuuuustom-fitted for the 2.007 class.

Each circuit has a 5v BEC module that feeds into the carrier board. This gives me a degree of redundancy in the logic power and also relieves the stress of feeding four (or more?) unhappy servos from one BEC. The BECs are the entry-level Hobbyking HV 3 amp unit.

There’s nothing left but the software. Or is there?

The Fiery Demise of the Land-Bear-Shark

You already know this is going to be exciting. But first, a video.

In accordance with my goal of bringing one random vehicle to every Swapfest, I rolled LBS out of MITERS (this time on a handcart to prevent 50-feet-away-death syndrome) once again after rebuilding the motor controllers for the nth time over. It proceeded to run the entire day without issue. Due to its more tame nature compared to things like LOLrioKart or melon-scooter, I let a few friends zip around the seller booths and parking garage on it (some of which is seen in the compilation above).

But with the day reaching temperatures of 95 degrees or so, and after climbing a dirt mound for a while – with much stalling and low speed running – and then afterwards gunning it at full speed up the parking garage ramps, the Beast-it-trollers finally gave out.

The little molten metal balls and pyrolyzed epoxy are classic signs of thermal overload failure. I’m satisfied, though, that this is probably my first real legitimate controller failure. Not some design flaw, or gate drive explosion, or being plugged in backwards, but honest-to-goodness overload. Now, if these had just exploded right away, I would have probably called it quits and left the DIY controller market forever. Maybe now I can slowly climb back up the controller ladder once more…so the next version will return to half-bridge synchronous rectification? And then I can have an H-bridge again? Then maybe one day, back to brushless!

Though with all of the molehill climbing I did, I also seem to have toasted the left side drive motor. That’s what probably led to the controller failure – the motor distinctively has the “shorted windings” feel when turned by hand.

But that wasn’t the most exciting thing that happened!


OH GOD KILL IT WITH FIRE

I wheeled LBS back to home base and pushed it off the handtruck and that’s when a majority of Hell broke loose. For seemingly no reason, massive plumes of smoke began pouring out of the frame. I figured the motor controllers had somehow failed short, but that couldn’t happen – I had already removed the key switch. So the next logical conclusion was BATTERY FIRE. However, the smoke did not smell of burning lithium battery electrolyte – it was purely wire smoke. I began pulling the thing towards the nearest door anyway in case it ever decided to transition to lithium battery electrolyte. By this time, the rate of smoke production had almost tapered off, so I just started removing the skateboard top instead.

It seems that the entire balancing harness shorted and caught fire. My assessment is that because I transported LBS upside down on a handtruck, the unrestrained battery pack mashed the balancing connectors and abraded the wiring down to the point of shorting. It would only take one short between cells to cause massive heating because of the cells discharging, and subsequently it would spread to the wires around it by melting the insulation.

The heat was enough to destroy the kapton insulation wrapping.

Flipping the cell bank over to the side where the individual wires were consolidated reveals the “flame trail”. Looks like the lower 4 cells shorted on the two packs.

And the packs after some selective surgery to get rid of hanging bare wire leads (and a little bit of brushing). The cells themselves seem to be fine – which I would imagine, since it’s really hard to kill an A123 cell using a 22 gauge wire. All cell voltages were checked and they seemed to be consistent with a pack that was just used intensively with cell voltage between 3.3 and 3.4 volts.

I’ll probably just rebuild these packs using more carefully routed, heavier insulated wiring.

So with pretty much all aspects of the tank now out of commission – controllers, motor, and batteries, I think I’ll temporarily declare this thing “done” for now since a full restoration is now going to need alot of effort. Maybe it will be seen again when the snows come back in the winter…