The Maxon DEC 50/5

Hey Maxon Motors, I’m the #1 Google hit for “Maxon DEC Module”. How many sales have I been responsible for?

What if you told me there exists a brushless DC motor controller about the size of a large postage stamp that was sensor commutated, took an analog 0-5v input, functioned up to 50 volts at a maximum of 10 amps, had built-in current limiting and its own internal logic power supply, and can be easily hacked for more power?

I’d be all like

wants one wants one wants one wants one wants one where can has nao?

Well, that was pretty much my reaction when I was told about the Maxon Motor DEC 50/5 module.

And here it is, in color and real life. A collaboration between Big Shane’s Fresh & Salty Motor Controls and Charles Z. Guan Experimental Vigorous Propulsion Industries Co. Ltd.

It’s everything I just described, and is my new favorite vegetable.

I really despise model airplane controllers. They’re great for their application – spinning a modest, largely invariant and predictable load. This is completely incorrect for an electric vehicle, which has a much more demanding and dynamic load profile. Sensorless commutation is fine for a propeller, where the motor can twitch at will, but it leads to a real chicken and egg problem for a high inertia load like a vehicle. If the motor can’t lightly move to generate a back EMF profile, then it doesn’t know which direction to apply torque in. And low speed performance is often chaotic and jittery.

So for a while, I’ve been praying to Robot Jesus and Co. for something the size of a model airplane controller that had sensored commutation. I was willing to give up significant power handling for sensors, since it takes much less brute motor strength to start a vehicle moving if the motor is actually utilized to its full potential.  Maxon seems to have answered the call with these DEC modules. The 50/5 appears to be the latest in a line of very small and low powered controllers.

Maxon provides a very helpful and thorough datasheet with the DECs, so naturally we had to set up the included basic test circuit.  The module requires minimal support to function – power, ground, three Hall Effect sensor inputs, 3 phase outputs, an analog throttle input, and two configurable digital inputs for setting closed-loop speed control. It provides logic and Hall sensor power internally, and can take an additional analog input for current limiting if your desired current is not “ALL OF IT“.

The form factor is not exactly helpful for breadboard use. It spans more than 1 breadboard’s worth of rails, so it got straddled across two. Next, the dual header had different pin functions on adjacent rows, which means that had to be split between two sides of one breadboard.

Now, how did that happen?

Somewhere in Switzerland, a Maxon engineer is probably crying over this picture.

Yeah. Those are wire-wrap IC sockets cut in half, sanded down, and bent over.

The BWD Scooter’s drive motors are about the most normal BLDC motors you can imagine, so they were selected for testing. It took a few tries to get the 3-sensor-and-3-power wire combinations correct, but here’s some observations about the DEC:

  • It has a built-in throttle and braking ramp that’s noticeable when the motor is freewheeling, but probably immaterial if mechanical inertia is considered. The ramp time seems to be speed difference dependent and is always <1 to 2 seconds.
  • If you try to switch directions while the motor is under power, the DEC will disable itself and then it requires either a power cycle or a toggle of the ENABLE pin to restart.
  • It will stop trying to run the motor after a few seconds if you hooked it up wrong. Or backwards.

I guess the datasheet spells all that out, but I’m just saying that it doesn’t appear to be lying :>

Through some part number trickery, Shane found that the small SMT FETs used are Infineon chips that have an on-state resistance of just under 6 milliohms. They don’t really have the thermal mass (nor the board any real thermally optimal properties) to be pushed significantly harder, but I think they can realistically handle 15 or so amps continuously, with no additional cooling. This is assuming a 100 degree Celsius device temperature, a 7 milliohm resistance at that temperature, and that the stated 50 Kelvins per Watt thermal impedance is accurate.

With additional heatsinking, which ought to be effective due to the thinness of the package, these modules can probably be pushed to 20+ amps. Past that, there’s always the Cheap Shady Chinese Small ESC Manufacturer Hackaround of soldering surface mount FETs on top of eachother. I think the effectiveness of this method just exponentially approaches some asymptotic amp limit.

Either way, to do this, the onboard current sense resistor (which sets the 10 amp built-in limit) needs to be bypassed. It’s a 10 milliohm, 1% tolerance SMT resistor. I normally just neuter my controllers of current sensing completely, but I’ve found that this some times gives unpredictable and fiery operation, so perhaps it’s just better to trick it into thinking it’s putting out 1/n the amps instead, where n is the number of times you parallel the CSR.

Anyways, here’s your daily exercise in absurdism.

Yeah, so I said something about crying engineers… Video of the brushless Etek.

Of course, there are disclaimers. It’s running off a power supply which stops at 5 amps. If I actually tried this with a battery, the DEC would probably have grenaded before it noticed what was going on.

Here’s a video of  That Other Thing We Should Try.  The DEC module sensor inputs are hooked up to the scooter rear wheel, but the drive outputs are connected to the Etek.

I see absolutely no practical purpose for this arrangement. It was late at night.

What’s Next

Deathblades. Deathblades deathblades deathblades deathblades.

This was the controls breakthrough I was seeking for the skates project. They’re small, sensored, and not very high power. They even directly interface with an analog input, so I can skip having an onboard microcontroller – XBEE radios have an “I/O” mode that lets the units be used in simple wireless sensing applications.

With my newly attained Mad Skillz, I’ll craft up a carrier board which has support equipment for two DECs and an xbee. I’ve already made a footprint for the DEC modules, but haven’t actually tried laying a board with them – still getting used to the pin and footprint naming convention of Eagle, so I might modify it for more legitimacy.

is can has bldc motter tiem

Deathblades: The Framework

In the interest of having a static display Deathblade on Thursday, I’ve been pushing up the timeline on parts work which was originally going to wait for summer. The frame pieces have been cut out, but I will only assemble 1 for now. The motor cores will not be wound for the presentation. Now that I finally received my delayed (at no fault to them!) McMaster shipment, I can make the motors’ center shafts.

That’s about it, actually. I also need to think of a wittier and less fear-inducing name than Deathblade. Let’s play the Name Charles’ Latest Stupid Vehicle Project game! I’m thinking it should stick to the $SINGLE_SYLLABLE + “Blades” theme.

Failblades? Motorblades? E-blades? Z-blades? Cheeseblades? Another suggestion I received was “EDM”, for both electrical discharge machining and “Electric Death Machine” which, while it appeals to my affinity for puns, still has the word death in it which I would like to…err, avoid.

Anyways.

We have motor magnets! I ordered these from my all-time favorite source of super magnets, Mr. Supermagnetgeorge back in early March some time when I decided to go ahead with the Deathblades project more seriously. They are custom-ground arc segments, 14 to a circle.  I elected to go with the strongest grade available in order to maximize torque. I might find it useful later on to switch to a high temperature grade for better magnetic field retention at healthy motor temperatures of 40-50 degrees Celsius.

Into the cans they go. I used some generic 2 part, 24-hour laminating epoxy that we happened to have a gallon of. The installation process was easy due to the fact that the magnets complete a circle.

I found that the magnet-making process is essentially dead on, dimension-wise. I keep overboring my can internal diameters because I possess fears that magnet #14 will barely not fit (lastmagnetdoesntfitophobia), but it seems like their manufacturing tolerances are tighter than what I can hold on the Old Mercedes.

After shoving in the magnets on both motors, I left the cans to cure under a desk lamp. The elevated temperatures allow the epoxy to set quicker and stronger.

Now that I know how far the magnets actually stick up, I could make the removable endcaps. They’re structurally the same as the permanent endcaps, just a few thousandths of an inch smaller in diameter.

After making the endcaps, I put the radial screw holes into both components.

Astute motor builders will probably wonder why I drilled and machined the steel endcap after I installed the permanent magnets. I did that because I’m an idiot and it was late at night.

Yeah. Make sure your motor cans are done before gluing the magnets, unless you like picking every last tiny chip of steel out of the can internals.

Yeah, um… about that “late at night” business.

It looks like I over-indexed by one peghole on my small adorable dividing head and didn’t notice. Actually, I don’t even know what on earth happened here. That’s two different directions of “slightly off”.

Oh well, at least the rest seem to be okay.

Moving on now to the skate wheel frame. Remember the rendering? Well, here it is, in 1/8″ aluminum form. The waterjet still stands as my most favorite machine tool ever, right next to bacon bit dryers.

Also in the picture is my weapon of choice for putting together the wheel frames. Now that I have had practice on Cold Arbor, zinc-aluminum brazing is one of my preferred methods of putting together thin(ish) aluminum structures when t-nuts are not optimal.

To zab something, you need a

Also, a set of heat-resistant gloves are nice. No, I couldn’t dodge the torch exhaust when building Arbor, no matter how hard I tried.

First, I hit all the parts with the belt sander in order to remove the waterjet’s characteristic features such as edge draft (minimal in 1/8″) and underside burrs. I also reduce the size of each tab slightly so it can fit into its appointed slot with only a small amount of beating and forcing.

I put center punch dots on a few slot-tab interfaces to keep the assembly together while it undergoes the joining operation.

Next is the globbing phase. This is where I heat each joint area to the point where it keeps a pool of solder alloy molten, then brush it thoroughly into the metal. All over the place. Vigorously. Enough to actually start scraping up and eroding the aluminum alloy underneath. I’m fairly certain this is actually desirable, since it mixes the solder into the parent metal and the whole things then solidifies as one piece.

As its name entails, the process leaves huge alloy blobs everywhere, which have to be cleaned up on the belt sander.

The results after a while of 120 grit assault.

I would have much preferred 60 or even coarser grades, since they remove the globs quickly, but we didn’t have a single coarse belt left. Time to place yet another McMaster order.

These results are great for me only having the patience to do the outer edges (that and the brush I made this time wasn’t long enough!). For extra strength, I should really fillet the “bucket” inside edges.

Here’s the eventual wheelmotor frame next to the original skate wheel frame. I kept the wheelbase identical in order to keep the handling characteristics the same.

Alright, here it comes…

IT’S DONE!!!!

… no, not really. I parked the original skate boot on top just to check if I got the mounting dimensions correct. And correct they are!

Here’s the dummy shot, c.f. the CAD mockup.

Clearly, the motors have no center shafts. This will be taken care of soon, hopefully today.  After that’s done, this *blade can stand on its own.

Well, not really. I’ll make a snazzy display stand for it or something.