Another Year, Another EV Section: 2.00Gokart

Almost exactly one year after my post concluding “2.00EV”, which laid out the foundations of what would become “2.00gokart”, I’m glad to say the semester is over and done with, and that it basically went down exactly like that. Sixteen undergraduates in Mechanical Engineering, together with some clowns from EECS, built eight kart-like devices over the course of twelve weeks (so that’s 0.04166 kart-undergrads/week?) , and at the end, like last year, there were games. For the full story of this year’s class, see the three previous relevant posts: Intro, progress update 1, and progress update 2. The bottom line is: $500 budget, some free materials, and practically no design constraints. The class goal is to teach you how to shop for parts and use rapid-prototyping resources that we have to build nice, functional things very quickly. So basically, 2.00-my-Instructable.

The crowd this year ranged from those who had some experience with the “design” part of EV Design from taking Mechanical Engineering’s introductory freshman course, to those who had experience building larger mechanical systems through FIRST, or who were basically pros already. I was afraid a little of going 2-person teams this year, since inevitably you might come to hate your partner, but the group was small enough, and enough of the class knew each other already, to avoid unwanted team dynamics for the most part.

Designwise, it’s particularly worth pointing out that nobody built a “normal” go-kart. By that, I mean 4 wheels, single rear axle, sit-down. There were many “tadpole trike” style designs which tried to save cost and complexity by using one rear wheel, so as to afford a better powertrain. That’s as ‘normal’ as the crowd got, and it only became more exciting from there. “Bobcat” style lever steering was infectious – of the three designs which steered with “rudders” as we called them, nobody used tank steering, but the linkages were hooked up to the front wheels to pivot them. And on top of all that, there were not one but two designs which placed the driver face first, lying down. That’s what I get for setting very few rules about the actual design, I suppose.

This post is just going to be a competition recap – after the previous update, there was only wiring and drive testing involved, most of which was in the parking lot so was not particularly exciting to watch. Skip to the bottom for the highlights video!

The most pressing task on my end in the last few weeks was preparing the defense strategy for the garage events. Last year, in response to safety office concerns about people nosing head first into concrete walls (a real and legitimate problem this year!), we set up those big orange fishing nets construction site debris barriers strung up on steel cables. While they could have been okay for scooters and other situations where the rider is roughly net height, the go-karts would all be too low for them to work (in the worst case they’d just strangle you on the way out). The nets were also a pain to set up, and once they were un-deployed, we really had no hope of ever saving them again since the steel cables became tangled up.

Last year, I bought a few bricks of blow-in natural fiber insulation (made of shredded cloth and paper, more or less) to pad the structural columns of the garage. My goal this year was to convince the safety office that a row of these (soft, fluffy) bricks was all you needed for go-karts. After all, everyone will hit things more or less at the same level this year, and the combined mass of the bricks plus their deformability will do a better job than a slingshot cable-hung net. Fortunately, convincing them was not particularly an issue – I basically got back the professional version of “lol k”.

So up they went. Myself and 3 students, the evening before the competition, set up the garage’s narrow wall end with a discontiguous wall of fluffy bricks. Notice that there’s “panel gaps’ on the order of 5+ feet. It would bad if you approached right at it, but on most floors, people came into this turn very wide, so it was highly unlikely for someone to slip through the gap. Plus, you’d have to be completely ballistic and motionless to not at least try to aim for the soft parts. This solution is much more scalable – setup and teardown took around 30 minutes each.

Besides the narrow end-turn region, a few of them were scattered around the columns as usual. 78 little fluff bricks were used in total, and after seeing how little of the average 14 foot box truck they filled, I’m completely fine with filling in the big gaps on the next runaround.

The morning of the competition, the same box truck was used to haul everyone’s karts over to the contest site.

Well, those who arrived by 9am anyway. The stragglers were forced to push their karts over.

First event of the day was the drag race. As the event organizer, I couldn’t get many pictures of the setup myself, and we were short-staffed enough in the morning that nobody else really got any either. At least there was video.

The two top placers in the drag race were a hundredth of a second apart yet represented opposite ends of the traditional EV design spectrum. One was huge, had giant balloon tires, and two massive DC motors. The other was small, lightweight, and had a single brushless motor.

After the drag races were done, we broke for lunch and then began the garage hoonage that is now a hallmark of silly vehicle activity at MIT. This is a Dramatic Photograph of the drivers’ meeting, basically me telling everyone where the start and finish are, in a protracted fashion.

Recall what the “garage challenge” was. Your total time climbing the four levels *and* your energy consumed (in watt-hours) is recorded. The product of the two is your score (with units Joule*seconds, though we used Wh*s for shorthand). Here’s what the results from 2012 looked like:

It’s basically a measure of how efficient you are at doing things. This actually has a mathematical basis in the concept of action. The closer you are to the original (0,0) of the graph, the less energy you used AND the faster you did it. So, there are actually myriad ways to score in something seemingly as simple as driving in a long upward spiral (for the same driver – the score is, of course, affected strongly by mass). You could run wide open all the time and get the best time, but you might use a ton of battery energy in the process – and hence could lose to someone more middle-of-the-road and who took it easy.

Here’s some photos from the garage, since by this time, more people were awake and ran over to take pictures:

“Supermankart” (which I whimshically termed “Suicidekart #2”) on the last leg of the climb, with the finish line around the corner.

The only thing to resemble a normal 4-wheel kart if it were not for its “reverse lawn tractor” steering patched on during the middle of term, the affectionately named “Beschleunigen Warenkorb” – as far as I understand it means “accelerating shopping basket“.

Suicidekart #1 “RoachKart”, so called because it’s extremely flat and quick, and on top of that seems to like going in random unintended directions.

“MiloKart”, named after a dorm cat with allegedly a very disproportionate rear end. The wheel is an 18″ lawn tractor wheel.

Zoran, the Norse God of Marshmellow Cream Puffs speed, and not to be confused with Zorak. The two builders of this machine blog more often than I do.

Bull Kart, nicknamed “lugekart” during the semester, so called because of its two long vertical footrest bars. It was basically a motorized street luge built using longboard components. Here, one of the drivers pulls a tighter-than-usual turn.

“Derpscooter”, one of the two contenders for first place along with RoachKart. The power system of this contraption was a C-8085-180 “short melon” motor with a 150A Kelly controller. It’s the first usage of a melon-class motor with a controller that can actually feed it well – often, people try to use these large motors with small controllers that inevitably detonate or are severely underpowered. Derpscooter edged out Roachkart in both competitions by single significant figures to take the overall win.

Camera car service was provided by shewu operating the DPRC…and an iPhone 5.

What’s left to do after the competition is over? Dispense with the clean, orderly arrangement of loading up and just start piling. This beautiful traditional go-kart-and-fluff arrangement was promptly shat out unceremoniously into our shop building’s loading zone.

This year, unfortunately, due to “No, I do not want to deal with the paperwork of you driving under a bus” reasons, students will not be allowed to keep their vehicles. So the last hurrah for everyone was at the 2.007 main competition:

During the intermission between the elimination and playoff rounds, there was a parade in front of everyone.

I was presented with this set of “nonfuzzy dice”, laser etched with everyone’s creation logos or CAD images, in walnut wood. My students had all heard of mikuvan by now, so I guess some of them banded up to create something for it. These nonfuzzy dice will be mounted proudly in wherever you’re supposed to hang dice that aren’t fuzzy in a car.

And now for the tl;dr: the highlights video from this year!

And here’s the compiled graph of results from this year:

Compared to some historical vehicles:

But wait! There’s more.

the summer session

I’ve been specially requested by the SUTD Collaboration and Mechanical Engineering to run a summer session of this class!  28 Singaporean sophomores and juniors will be coming over to MIT this summer, and they needed something to do. Well, do I have the adventure in stock for them…

The plan for this crew is *eight* teams of three and two additional teams of two for those who are more skilled. The students are less mechanically inclined than my class this semester, and they will have to learn to deal with our curious units system. So, there will be some changes to the course material. The class is only 8 weeks instead of 13, so I’ll have to plan which “milestones” to condense accordingly. And, more materials will be provided, because the impact of having to wait a whole week for a part will be unacceptably great in this timeframe. People will still have the ability to specify their own parts if they want, but otherwise, I’ll have a giant bin of things to pick from.

Stay tuned for the third great race-off at the end of summer.

This Week in Mikuvan

Nope, it’s not Miku colored yet. Quit asking.

It’s hard to believe that I only went on the Great Van Escapade a week and some ago. Between then and now, I’ve done many hours of disassembly, testing, and debugging. I think I’ve finally rooted out the problem, but am waiting on some more advice and recommendations before proceeding. Why am I even buggering with fixing the ICE engine, with all its attendant pre-OBD-but-post-CARB Mitsubishi-only oddities, when I’m just going to unbolt it all and drop in an electric power system? Not quite sure, but some of it has to do with curiosity in figuring out exactly how much of a complexity nightmare ICE vehicles are, and others because I have 20 more days of temp plates left. Getting in some driving feel would be immensely helpful too.

Mikuvan lives in the enclosed underground parking garage under my apartment block, next to a Honda CR-V, a Volkswagen Golf, a Prius, and (among other cars) a 1963 Mercury Comet. Good, I’m not the only project car sitting in a pile of its own parts. Looking down the row of parked cars is amusing – all you see is hoods and headlights…and then there’s this.

At least it’s not on-street or outside. But the downsides of this arrangement include the total lack of AC outlet power nearby, poor lighting, and a lack of Wifi or cell reception. The nearest outlet is 75 feet away, necessitating some extension cord creativity. I have a 500W halogen work light to relieve the lighting issue, but it is still only one source. The latter issue means I often neglected to bring cameras or camera-enabled things with me into wrenching sessions. Hence, even though there were plenty of cool photo ops, this post will sadly be mostly text.

Hey, so is my air filter supposed to be furry?

The story of digging in around in the drivers seat engine bay is centered around consulting with people who know a thing or two about what cars are, then vaguely following their suggestions but ultimately falling back to the Official Strategy Guide / Shop Manual to figure out through its well-drawn but extremely narrow view diagrams where the parts in questions actually were.

It’s often said that you need 3.5 things to get an engine to work. Spark, fuel, compression, and when-does-the-spark-fire (i.e. timing the spark, the 0.5 part). I basically began by checking the ones that were easy: spark and compression. To check the timing properly would have involved exposing the timing pulleys, which, as far as I could tell necessitated removing the radiator and cooling fan shroud, then also removing the distributor cap which was more accessible. I did not feel like attempting this in the dark with limited tools. In Pennsylvania, we already verified compression, so I started by checking the spark plug lines.

I bought 2 of these in-line plug checker lights from Harbor Freight (not sure why I just didn’t go ahead and get 4). The firing order of the engine is 1 – 3 – 4 – 2, so I started by putting the lights on 1 and 3 to verify the order, then 3 and 4, and so on. Basically to make sure that 1) there was spark even if it may not be the correct timing, and that 2) the  cables weren’t switched around or something.

The sparking order checked out fine, so I began reading up on fuel injector testing and cleaning. My suspicion at this point moved to the injectors, since they were really the only element left. I highly doubted it was a timing issue in that somehow the timing belt (which is in great condition as far as I can see – it must have been replaced fairly recently) skipped 1 tooth or the distributor cap rotated enough such that I got completely inconclusive cranking – even a late spark would give me some kind of ‘puff’ and an early spark would cause premature detonation and horrible noises.

But I couldn’t help but think that all 4 injectors failing or clogging at once was extremely unlikely. In my experiences with watching friends tell stories of problem cars and from a few trouble vehicles my family has owned, engines don’t just suddenly stop working unless either something

  1. catastophically failed on the mechanical side, which I would certainly know by now, or
  2. a single electrical point of failure such as a sensor is preventing the ECU from running the engine properly

My money was moving towards some stupid sensor failure. For instance, if the crankshaft position sensor, used for fuel injection timing and electronic spark timing (the ECU fires the ignition coil when it feels like) is out, then the ECU won’t know when to do either of those things. If the throttle position sensor, which is potentiometer based, was broken or worn, it could be reporting a completely nonsensical value, though this seemed less likely since you’re never supposed to step on the throttle while starting, unless you know exactly why you have to. There’s other sensors involved too, like the mass air flow sensor which the ECU uses to determine how much fuel is metered into the cylinder.

With all of these things having to work in synchrony, I’m amazed cars function at all.

Here’s the scene of the crime, lit up by the aforementioned 500 watt halogen light. It kept the area reasonably warm, as the rest of the garage is unheated and basically settles to its own temperature by thermal inertia alone (surely it will get unbearably hot during the summer).  At this point, to access the fuel injectors and high pressure fuel rail, I have the passenger seat slung up, the driver seat removed, and the underframe of the driver seat also detached but just shuffled out of the way a bit since it has the parking brake lever, fuel door lever, seat belt anchor, and a host of other stuff on it I don’t feel like dropping into the engine.

Here’s the whole mess from the other side. The shop manual has been my reading material of choice for the past week. It’s extremely informative, but at the same time I can tell it was written by mechanics for other mechanics. I assume that the unlabeled detail shots require some background in wrenching to understand where to insert the thingimadoodle and how many degrees to turn the whatchamadoosit. There’s other info missing such as sensor pinouts right after it tells me what voltage this or that sensor should read…

…While the engine is running. How about a little help for the other case here, guys?

Before taking even more things apart to get to the injectors, I decided to see if it could tell me what was wrong.

Okay, now I’m seeing something familiar. My van debugs like a Kelly controller or Hobbyking controller!

It predates OBD (“OBD-1”), so it has multiple means of debugging available. You could buy the $500+ “multi-use tool” which is like a form of proto-OBD scanner, or you can debug with a voltmeter. Not a digital one – an analog one. It puts out little pulses of voltage so you can see the needle move (digital meters do too much time-averaging to see this effect). If I added an LED to the circuit, I literally could have watched it blink. It probably would have said “FREQUENT RESET” or something, knowing the average Kelly controller.

So an analog voltmeter it is. It took me a while of digging in MITERS to even find one of our crufty analog voltmeters, and I ended up having to make hardwire leads for it anyway.

But it worked! The key has to be turned to ON (not start) for a few seconds for the ECU to start putting out pulses. The result is:

Normal State!

Oh, come on.

My guess is that since the vehicle has not been started since my new battery was connected, the ECU doesn’t know what’s good or bad. The engine must run, no matter how crappily, for a while before the ECU can recognize something is out of range or nonresponsive. My mission now was to try and get the thing started no matter what. If the injectors were clogged, then I’d have to unclog them.

One thing I was told to try was to drop carb/throttle body cleaner (i.e. vicious, surely carcinogenic,  and highly volatile solvent cleaner) directly into the fuel rail, mixed in with the gasoline, to try and dissolve anything which might be causing injector blockage on the spot. Basically you cycle the injectors bathed in disgusting solvents and let it sit for a while, then try again. Rinse and repeat. I bought a little can of Seafoam on recommendation from friends, which appears to the most disgusting of the disgusting solvents since it claims to clean everything. Seems legit, right?

The procedure was to disconnect the high pressure fuel line from the rail, get most of the fuel in there out, and replace the rest with Disgusting Solvent #81289. I wicked fuel using a few shop towels, which were promptly lit on fire for my own amusement (this process does not have photos associated), and mixed in Seafoam about 50/50 into the rail. Next, I gave the engine about 10 seconds of crank to get the new mixed drink into the injectors. During this time, the engine sputtered a few times.

Promising.

An hour later, I came back to give the engine another spin. 10 more seconds of excited cranking and sputtering later, it took off.

It was shaking like crazy and white smoke was everywhere (allegedly a sign of the cleaner doing its thing), and the revs were unsteady for the first few seconds of run. It seemed to settle into an idle, though I was both too excited and scared shitless to check the tachometer for functionality. Something was happening.

I was under the impression based on checking the dipstick in Pennsylvania that the engine was very low on oil. It was also running with zero coolant. Fearing causing damage due to lack of lubrication, I shut the engine off after about 20(ish) seconds of running.

it did something

Unfortunately, that was the only run I got out of it that night. I regrouped thoughts for a bit to formulate the plan of attack if it started and ran more than once. On the next shot, there was some more sputtering, but no consistent behavior. I gave the air intake a dose of starting fluid to no avail. By the next few tries, the battery was wearing down too low to crank effectively. I’d have to bring in my charger and top it off before trying again, so I cleaned up for the night.

That was when I noticed that the air flow sensor wasn’t connected at all.  Remember the air filter shot? I opened the air cleaner box to remove and replace it with a fresh one, but neglected to reconnect the airflow sensor.  So, the engine running must have been pure luck – or the cleaner/solvent making for such a volatile mixture that any small amount was sufficient for it to keep turning over. The air flow sensor is a “hot grid” type sensor (looks like this) used for air mass calculations. If “disconnected” also means “off scale low”, it means the ECU would think that there was no airflow. No airflow means no air mass to calculate fuel injection quantity with. And no fuel means no combustion except if you’re basically mainlining Seafoam. My exhaust system is probably really clean right now.

Yesterday evening, I tried re-adding some cleaner to the fuel rail (in lesser quantity) to try and confirm this theory. I got the engine to sputter some times, but no starting and running was observed.  I also noticed that the ECU code had finally changed to:

Air flow sensor.

It was definitely connected. I even abraded the pins a little and recrimped the socket to increase contact pressure just to make sure it had connectivity. I couldn’t tell if the element was damaged (it looked good, even clean) or the entire sensor had just stopped working or what. I cleaned the grid element with some rubbing alcohol and let it dry under the halogen lamp for a while. No obvious changes were noted, nor were any starts effected. Maybe “disconnected” is a totally different signal from “porked”.

A new-used MAF sensor costs about $120 on eBay, so I went ahead and ordered one. Even if it’s not the problem, I now have a debugging chain to follow instead of shooting in the dark.  The airflow sensor being problematic would corroborate my theory that some critical sensor failing is causing the ECU to not control air, fuel, or spark properly. We’ll see how this goes.

With these new developments, I decided to do some staging and preparation. First, I wanted to get the disgusting sludge oil leftovers out of the engine and put in something fresh. On the same Harbor Freight trip earlier in the week, I anticipated needing to do this eventually so I got an oil filter strap wrench and a waste oil container, the kind with the integrated drip pan. I ordered a new oil filter off eBay (the best auto parts store!) last week already.

The oil drain plug and filter were clearly designed to be accessed from an auto lift. I didn’t have this, so luckily the thing has a massive front nose cavity…

The plug and filter aren’t visible in this picture, but they’re right behind the front suspension arms. The radiator to the left is the A/C condenser – it’s the first thing to hit if you drive over a tall curb or something.

I also noticed while I was under there that the transmission oil pan is basically the first thing to hit the ground if I go over an enthusiastic speed bump. I’m not sure how they expected this to navigate the rough streets of the U.S. while loaded with seven U.S. sized adults. Maybe everything was smaller back in 1989…

It was black. ALL BLACK.

Around 5 quarts of entirely black oil poured out of the crankcase. Like, this stuff was basically the color of the filter. So it did have oil after all! “Oil”, anyway. I think we must have read the dipstick wrong in PA, since we swore it had very low oil.

Always a good thing to find in the drip pan – little metal particles. And chunks of sludge.

I let both filter and drain plug ports drip for over an hour (while waiting for the battery to charge) before refilling it with some new 5W-30 from the gas station. I didn’t bust money on premium oil since I figure it wasn’t going to stay in the car for too long anyway.

Oh, also, the oil filter had basically no torque on it. I didn’t even need the strap wrench – just the torque of my hand trying to engage the strap loosened it. No wonder there is a thin sheen of oil all over the underside – it must have just been leaking forever. I made sure to crank it down when I installed the new filter.

The game right now is to wait for the new airflow sensor and see what happens from there. I’ve pledged to give an honest debugging effort to this thing even if I’m not keeping the engine for long, and I’m willing to spend some money on it.  I’ll make sure to take more pictures of everything in the future.

This is also the first post in the new Mikuvan build thread. Oh boy, I’m in deep now…