BOARDS BOARDS BOARDS BOARDS

After two weeks of nervous, anxious anticipation…

SMALL CUTE HALF BRIDGE BOARDS! They’re so clean… so shiny… so detailed… so…

… expensive…

I ordered 4 (+1 free) from Advanced Circuits shortly after posting about them. Over the course of 2 weeks, I got no less than 1 postcard, 1 thick envelope (which I thought contained my boards) full of brochures, a round PCB drink coaster, and three sales representative calls asking me how I’m doing and whether or not I had any order questions.

And with the boards, I got a little packet of free microwave popcorn.

Advanced Circuits is like a grandmother or gift-pushy uncle. I’d actually appreciate it if they laid off the customer appreciation and just got me my damned boards faster. That means more than any random token ever will.

Anyways, 5 is enough for one split-pi converter and 1 3 phase motor driver bridge. So there may be some more minor power conversion experiments in the future.

While waiting for the boards and the WHERE THE FUCK ARE MY BATTERIES, STILL? for Deathblades, I decided to make a second iteration of the “Double DECer” board.

Alot cleaner, isn’t it?

Shortly after finishing the previous iteration and  debating myself over component placement and available volume, I discovered there was really no problem at all.

In designing the most recent drawing of the ‘blades, I mistakenly constrained the top of the battery pack to be 5 millimeters under the edge of the aluminum sides. When I changed the battery pack spec, I only changed the part dimensions and not that constraint. In reality, then, what seemed like only 5 millimeters of space was actually 23mm. I thought it was a little weird to have a 31mm tall battery fill up a 54mm cavity almost to the brim.

I then remembered that PCBs can have two sides, which was instrumental in creating the new layout. If I put the Xbee and DECs on opposite sides of the board, then they won’t conflict with eachother volumewise!

The new layout reflects this. On the “top side” sit the Xbee, glue circuitry, bus capacitors, and I/O connections. The DECs, now turned to face eachother, occupy space on the board’s bottom, and the “overhang” they provide is used to park the 3.3v regulator. All the control pins are right there and there’s no more cross-board running of signals.

I was even able to add some real mounting holes. The outer dimensions are within Eaglol’s 4 inch X-limit, and the board is 1.5″ wide.

This is a board that is actually worth sending out now.

Deathblades: Enough for Cosplay

This week has just been a torrent of Deathblades work. I’m (kind of…) proud to say that the skate motors are all finished. Well actually, two of them still need their share of custom arc magnets, which I hope to take care of soon through Supermagnetgeorge again. At the least, they can support my weight and I can skate around unpowered.

In other words, I’ve successfully built a set of roller blades. Hurray.

Yesterday, I was able to terminate and test one motor, so today I repeated the process for all of the remaining ones.

Here they are, sitting on the “drying rack”. Again, I kept C-clamps on the pigtails so they would be pulled down as low as possible. This time, I mixed up some thin laminating epoxy and let it flow across the wires. The 5-minute stuff I used before was sort of gel-like and didn’t really flow well.

To make the thin epoxy set in under a day’s time, I added a few times the recommended amount of hardener. This probably trades off alot of strength, but it’s not really structural anyway.

Know what’s cool? Having two motors.

Know what’s not cool? Not having enough breadboard space to put another DEC rig on. I wasn’t that interested in pursuing the simultaneous control of both motors immediately, so I decided against mocking something up. To test the other motor, I just swapped wires.

What I found very interesting was that the motors were heavily timed – possibly up to 30 degrees difference between the two directions.  Both motors registered about 1,600 RPM in the “reverse” direction, where reverse is defined as the direction the frame would fly in if I dropped it on the floor with the motor spinning. They only achieved around 1,300 in “forward”.

Additionally, one of the motors required a cyclical shift of the phase terminations (i.e. motor-A to controller-C, C to B, B to A), but the other one only ran with A and C swapped but B unchanged.

Motors are strange.

The fake motors get the red wheels. I only ordered 2 sets of magnets and haven’t gotten around to ordering the rest, so for now one skate (the left side, as I’m right-dominant) will have dummy motors.

Or, if you think of it another way, motors with really really crappy Kt.

So what did I do with two dummy motors? Put the dummy skate together!

The stock ‘blades used a very unique M6 bolt with a very flat and broad head to attach the wheel frame to the boots. I wanted to keep that bolt since it was unlikely that I could find a similar bolt.

Consquently, I decided to extract the matching nut because there was no way you could get me to dig through all of MITERS for a M6 nut.  The stock wheel frames split in two after all hardware is removed, so extracting the nut was simple.

The stock nut was also a very broad kind, which translates to a bit more rigidity.  Unfortunately, I can’t remove the boot without also removing the wheels. Oops.

And here is the dummy skate.

I decided to orient the motors such that their cables faced inwards. This is probably a position that’s safer in terms of snagging. The good news is that they all reach to the middle of the frame, so any conceivable control board orientation is achivable.

The bad news is there’s no board to attach them to yet. Sigh.

And here’s both of them!

Clearly I’ll have to take these apart again to install the rest of the components, but in the mean time, publicity shot!

I took a short unpowered run around the hallway to see if they were still useful as.. you know, skates. The LRK winding and magnet arrangement yield very little drag and ripple torque. I suspect my bearings are contributing more loss than the motor drag. Overall, they “skate” well.

So if the motors or batteries ever become dysfunctional, the whole thing doesn’t become instantly useless. Such is the beauty of hub motors.

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