Überclocker Update 18: I think I’ve fooled the Robot Gods… for now Edition

Alright, so I’m in Atlanta.

Sunday and Monday evening were mostly spent tuning the signal module. I found out that the Victors do indeed have optocouplers larger than the asses of most Hollywood women, and not even the Atmel chips could drive them. In the end, I still have to splice some small signal transistors (ran open-emitter style for non-inverting buffering goodness) into the PWM cables so the Victors would notice my desperate attempts to communicate.

The signal module is an Arduino embedded Atmel controller, and the code was all written by me. It’s my most complicated recent microcontroller adventure. I excavated a little of what I learned about discrete-time control systems from 6.01 to implement the control loop. Essentially, the AVR waits for an incoming R/C signal and reads each pulse width to determine my throttle stick position (and thus the fork position). It then has 18 milliseconds to determine what to do with it. 18 millseconds at 16MHZ is alot of time.

The AVR chips have a 10-bit analog-to-digital converter, so it reads the arm potentiometer and returns a value between 0 and 1023. Conveniently, R/C PWM signals have pulses between 1000uS and 2000uS, which is close enough to 1024 and 2048, 2^n values. So it was rather easy to make a proportional-only controller by scaling the armpot values. I added an integral term to the output equation also to get rid of the steady-state positioning error that resulted from the Victor controller’s deadband around 1500uS. This got the arm responsive enough for me to call it a night and tune it later.

Then stuff broke.

Of COURSE I had to go back and make a few solder joints more permanent, and otherwise touch up the PCB I mounted everything to. I didn’t notice that I had made a very tiny solder bridge between +22 volts (the robot’s main battery) and the output side of the 5v regulator chip.

When I plugged it back in, the AVR controller quite literally exploded in my face. It’s in several pieces.

So then I really did have to call it a night…and started packing the bot up. I ordered a new Arduino board (since the roasted one is very securely soldered to the PCB and not worth the effort to extract) and should have it next week. For anyone interested in learning from my adventures in making a giant servo, I’ll post my code when it’s cleaned up and tuned.

Uberclocker

I stuffed two suitcases full of robot equipment with clothing and personal supplies interspersed between the goods. Here’s Uberclocker locked into its handy bot carriage, with spare parts and hardware. As there was plenty of space in the suitcase, I zip tied NK and Pop Quiz in, to keep the bots in one place. The other suitcase contained the charger, transmitters, and tools.

Somehow this all got past Homeland Hilarity, but the botcase suffered a bent caster wheel. In order to make the thing self-supporting, I borrowed a hammer from one of the baggage offices to beat it back into shape. Wait, I just got handed a massive claw hammer by an airport desk clerk? Huh?

Anyways, in Atlanta, I got to work on the new clamp arm actuator. Here’s a rendering of the new design.

The gist of it: Solid aluminum structure, indirect gear drive. The leadscrew is fixed to the fr0k and does not rotate – instead, this whole assembly climbs up and down it. This takes all the loads off the motor shaft and instead transfers it to some big chunks of metal. The only way to destroy the clamp arm now is to rip the leadscrew clean out, or applying so much force that the nut strips out.

I’m not saying this can’t happen, but it’s unlikely to happen at D*C.

Here it is implemented. Yes, I’ve been COMPLETELY spoiled by easy access to machine tools – while this would have taken me a few minutes walking to get done at MITERS, I had to drive no less than 50 miles round-trip to make this sucker, and of course make Dale put up with my really bad habits that I’ve accumulated from working without supervision.

Suburban Atlanta needs a few you-build-it freelance engineering places, so I think I’ll make it a mission later in life to start them. Although I suspect the culture to support it is missing…

This actuator is a throwback to something I made in late 2005 for Science Olympiad. My robot entry for that year had a linear actuator attached to a movable jaw that could clamp down on objects. I custom-made the actuator using some gears hacked out of an R/C car, a block of UHMW, and patience on the drill press. The output gear is threaded on the inside to ride up and down a piece of threaded rod.

Pop Quiz 2

In the same machining session, I made a new blade collar for Pop Quiz. This retains the blade on its drive motor, so it’s a pretty critical part. Stock steel shaft collars didn’t come in the width I needed, and would have been a tad too heavy. So I made a quick aluminum clamp-style shaft collar, 1/4″ wide, 1.25″ OD.

I’m still facing severe failsafing issues with Pop Quiz. It’s been a reported problem with the tiny GWS receivers, and there seem to be no workarounds besides the usual anti-RF stuff, but the thing is still pretty jittery. It goes nuts if I turn the radio off when anything is moving.

Pretty bad for something that can remove outlying body parts with ease. I might switch back to the other micro-style receiver and mod it for height.

Here’s Pop Quiz in its final state.

In other bot news, Nuclear Kitten’s replacement battery pack arrived and will be swapped in shortly.

Dragon Con is A WEEK AWAY!

Überclocker Update 16, Nuclear Kitten update 3: A picture is worth 9000 words Edition

So I can’t find the sub-micron sized grain of dust or metal shaving that is caught in the lens actuator of my camera. Unfortunately, this means that I will have to start haunting Ebay and local consumer electronics outlets. Until then, I suppose everyone who reads this site (all -0.000001259 of you) will be in suspense, save the occasional grainy cell phone camera picture.

The basic rundown is that Überclocker is ready to be wired and NK is also approaching mechanical completion.

Überclocker

I drew up the “EBay” assemblies and prepared flat patterns to make them out of sheet metal. Unlike TB4.5SP1 which had all its electronics in a bunch, Überclocker features “distributed electronics”. There’s not really an advantage to either method, just that I couldn’t find space in this bot to slam all the electronics in one place.

Each is a work of 1/16″ aluminum origami (read: smashing in a vise and banging on it while wielding a torch) that bolts to a close frame member. There is nothing secured to the baseplate, unlike TB (and all my previous bots). Furthermore, all of the Ebays are dismountable from the outside.

This is the left side Ebay, which houses the main switch and Convenient DB9 Connector of LiPo Balancingâ„¢. The big switch came off a 1980s era PC power supply which, despite being a 7 inch cube, could manage maybe 200 watts. It is mounted such that the top bezel is flush with the top cover plate of the bot. A little rectangle will be cut out of the top plate to pass it.

Since Überclocker isn’t a severe duty bot, I decided to forego making a normally closed switch like I did for TB. The detent is strong enough for me to not worry about it randomly clicking off.

The rear Ebay clamps the batteries between itself and the rear of the bot. It also carries the Victor 883 controllers for the drive motors. The right side Ebay houses a third Victor and a small Banebots ESC to control the clamp motor.

fr0kp0t mounted. This was an afterthought, and I really didn’t want to take the entire thing apart again, so it was just clamped and hand drilled. The potentiometer is rather exposed for something which will be telling the fr0k everything about where it is in life, so it might get a larger metal cage. The pot is coupled to the fr0k through the shaft set screw.

There is currently no bottom hard mechanical stop for the fr0k, and so it can swing all the way around the bottom of the bot (no doubt ripping off the entire bottom plate in the process). To prevent this, I’ll add some things that stick out of the fr0k towers. While I could easily limit the travel in software, a hardware backup is good for preventing self-eating disasters.

So Überclocker is ready to be wired up and programmed. The fr0k, with the chain tightened (by removing one pitch with an offset link), successfully powerlifted 30 pounds, so I know torque isn’t a problem. Maybe there will be a drive test soon…

Nuclear Kitten 5

NK went from 0 to about 50% done in a day due to the “snap-together” chassis. The only thing I needed to build for that were some nutstrips ( 1/4″ aluminum squares with regularly spaced tapped holes), which was tedious but trivial. Past that, I had to machine up the weapon motor and drive wheels.

I specifically bought a 4-40 spiral-tipped tap so I could powertap all the holes, 7 each in 12 nutstrips. Sadly enough, I’m short about 4 inches worth of 1/4″ square aluminum stock to make the last of the nutstrips. This is within range of just biting the proverbial bullet and machining down some bigger stock.

Blurry ass-picture showing some frame bits and the nutstrips. Ignore the obvious non-trusses that populate the inner rails. My excuse is that it was 5AM Joltgineering – I’m not sure why I didn’t just link the corners with triangles instead of making an ugly V shape.

I like this “Chinese Puzzle” frame – I think I’ll keep the tricks in mind for future projects.

While the waterjet pump was still primed, I tossed on a plate of 1/4″ 4140 and cut out the blades.

Because the blades are now steel, they are thinner in profile. This should be more than enough for 3lber duty, especially after heat-treating (famous last words).

After discovering that the grungy MITERS horizontal bandsaw cut much faster when I dropped a weight on the end of it, I started on the disc motor. The motor itself is almost identical in structure to my wheelmotor and much simpler in construction. I also didn’t have a stiff and consistent tool holding device when I built the wheelmotor. Overall, this resulted in a very fast build of the disc motor structure.

I made two side plates out of 3″ aluminum round and the center axle out of 1″. A steel pipe was turned into the magnet ring. This steel pipe appeared fine on inspection, but upon contact with a cutting tool, turned to powder on the inside. Fortunately, the rust wasn’t deep enough to affect the final ring dimensions.

I also made all four drive wheels. Each wheel consists of a stock SDP (redundancy?) pulley, an aluminum “rim”, and an O-ring “tire. The process was fast, since each rim only had radial features that could all be made by selective parting tool use. The drive motors themselves are in transit and should arrive Monday. Previously, I ordered a few Speed 300 size RC motors off Ebay to retain the absurd speed and maneuverability of NK4, which featured those motors spliced into the aforementioned gearboxen.

Upgrading the wheel size the morning before I ordered all my parts (more 5AM  Joltgineering), I failed to account for the fact that one of the frame connector pieces now interfered with the front wheels. Something will probably be sanded down.

After taking a Taco Bell break, I put the disc motor together for a test fit. This motor has a very tight airgap to maximize torque, and I was worried about the tolerances adding up and causing the stator to grind against the magnets. To my surprise, it ran concentric and true – with no rubbing. Cheers for the robot gods. I then went back and preliminarily installed all 28 magnets (in groups of 2) with ultra-thin CA glue. The empty spaces will be filled in with epoxy.

So, here’s a picture of NK in that “well, it LOOKS done” pose.

Old NK is undergoing the scrapping process to extract the goodies (there’s not much left).

Only a few spacers here and there remain to be done on NK.

So the summary of things to do is:

Überclocker

  1. Wire up!
  2. ???
  3. Profit!
    1. Make bot carrier

NK5

  1. Weapon pivot axle and spacers
  2. Wind motor
  3. Tune drivetrain for belt tension
  4. Wire up

PQ2

  1. Wait for giant plate of titanium (est. Tuesday)
  2. Cut blades out of Ti
  3. Machine a blade retaining collar
  4. Integrate receiver and mixer into a single module
  5. Think of how to get reception

A week remains…