A Return to Scale Model Testing Your BattleBots?! Überclocker/30Haul and Norwalk Havoc

We’re going to time-skip to the recent past and away from non-stop van content for a little while. It’s time to get back into some robots!

This isn’t to say I’m out of van tales – in fact, it’s actually gotten worse…. much worse…. but there’s plenty of news to report on the robot front and I’d like to do so before I become an off-brand automotive blog. I mean, more so than this site already is?!

So the event to be seen at if you’re a kool robot kid as of late is the Norwalk Havoc series which has been running as a beetleweight-centric event since 2018. I’ve mentioned it in passing a few times, usually in the context of Roll Cake and mechanical abject art I’ve made using its prize trophy. This event has been responsible for more or less creating an entire new generation of first-time competitors. It’s nice to have someone who is willing to bleed immense amounts of money onto the sport; the best way to make a million dollars doing robot fighting is, after all, to start with ten million.

After a while of doing ants and beetles, they decided to enter the 12/30lb “big arena” scene in late 2020 with the inaugural event taking place in February 2021. Well, with another BattleBots on the horizon and an Overhaul that was basically ready, I decided – hey, might as well use 30Haul to test a few more production changes before I make an even bigger financial mistake.

And so we begin. 30Haul was basically undamaged from the Before Times of 2019, and having followed the evolution of BattleBots Season 5 in 2020 from afar (as I decided that traveling out there just to hang around and mess with 10⁸ different COVID-related restrictions just wasn’t worth the potential to get detained), there were both some changes I wanted to make to the bot itself and some scale-model testing to be performed for Overhaul’s own future attachments.

First off, ever since the transition from “Uberclocker-shaped” to “Overhaul-shaped” in 2016, I’ve not had the ability to pull off Überclocker’s signature spin move. The long spring-loaded, roller-tipped legs let the bot move fairly well while holding onto an opponent. After I changed the design to become “30Haul”, the spring-loaded legs went away in favor of various wedge attachments to counter spinners (which I maintain are the cause of the decline of the sport).

Part of the architecture change of the latest Überclocker version 5 in 2019 with its broad multipurpose breadboarded front clip was so I can more conceptually detach the bot’s shape from its configurations. Overhaul v2 and its attendant 30lb version were both shaped with the frame rails extending past the lift axle’s fore-aft dividing plane, like a mild U shape. This limited what I could put there without making it vulnerable to damage, especially from the sides.

I specifically made the new “pontoon anchors” with pivot points space such that I could use either single-piece forks between them (like it currently has) or put something wider that straddles them on the outside, such as a new set of roller legs. I decided to push forward with adding these for the February Norwalk Havoc, since even though it was a “full contact” event, it would be good to have the Sportsmans-style configuration available (for the odd bot out these days that doesn’t have a small vertical spinner….)

And so, following the general pattern of the single-piece long wedge forks and using their construction sketch as a template, I started sketching out the profile:

These new roller legs were to stick out another half inch or so than the forks. Even with the longer wedge forks I ended up making, 30Haul was still prone to tipping forward if I lifted something too quickly (a syndrome Overhaul 3 itself also currently exhibits!). The longer extension meant these would really be limited to Sportsmans-style matches, but hey, nothing wrong with that.

After generating a profile, I mirrored the bodies to make the two side plates. In Inventor at least, my preferred strategy for making weldments is a multi-body part with fab files made using derived parts from the individual bodies. It’s only slightly terroristic but one of the rare habits I crossed over from Solidworks.

Completed leg design with web infill as two more disjoint bodies, and added fixturing tabs. Another reason I grew into doing this was the ease of doing cross-part (cross-body, I suppose) references for geometry such as these tabs, without actually having them cross distinct part files in an assembly. That rarely holds together long, for me at least.

Add a few nuts and bolts and here we are. The roller will be machined from Delrin, as per usual. When 30Haul is in this configuration, the rubber mounted pontoon anchors are instead going to be thru-bolted with Delrin spacers, keeping the compliance only in the (more rigid) single rubber bump stop.

Part of the success of Überclocker’s support legs is their spring compliance – freely hanging legs with just a hard stop make the whole multi-bot complex easier to tip forward, something Overhaul is struggling with now, as there is nothing to soften the initial rotation and the momentum of the lift will kick the center of gravity over the legs.

I expect similar changes to occur for Overhaul’s wedge forks – they’ll always have some amount of elastic compliance, versus just being freely swinging like they are now.

Here’s how it looks in this configuration. The (as-is) forks have a lot less prominence, but not really much worse than Überclockers-past were.

With that configuration behind me, I turned back to “spinner mitigation” strategies. Overhaul had historically featured two steel wedge assemblies I called the pontoons, named largely after the features on Overhaul 1 which were spawned from the then mega-Ron (and subsequently Sawblaze) contribution to the design.

Over the course of the 2016 and 2018 seasons of Battlebots, and from Motorama experience, I began to look away from this design. Sure, they were very effective in their job, but because they only covered a small portion of the bot, I had to drive very precisely to leverage them with the otherwise undesirable side effect of sending the weapon into the rest of the bot.

They also don’t distribute forces well, pulling on one side of the chassis. Recall that Overhaul 2018’s grudge match with Valkyrie debuted the “DETHPLOW” design which spanned both sides of the bot. I made short “T-rex” arms to fit behind them, and I do with I could have gotten to use this thing more during the actual tournament, because it did resolve the “focusing energy onto one side of the bot” problem…. but obviously not the “Fling Valkyrie into your face” problem.

I decided after watching the game evolve during the 2019 and 2020 seasons to switch to a more common bot-spanning wedge, a design I usually called the “Tombstone Snout”. It’s the present year, horizontal spinners are no longer your major concern. A rigid and angled piece of steel is sufficient to overcome most of them. It’s the verticals you really have to worry about.

I spent a little while thinking of ways to make the arms rise through the Snout. I didn’t want an open area with short arms any more, as that’s a lot of ingress surface for any opponent. So I decided to make narrow slots for a set of T-rex arms to rise up and through. For now, though, I’d concentrate on the (rather simple) flat geometry. As with Overhaul’s complex faceted wedges, I began with a wireframe sketch pile made of both 2D and 3D sketches.

From there, surfaces were made to turn the sketch edges into 2D facets.

I then apply a Thicken Surface operation to get the solid plate models. Depending on where the face is, it might be a thicken-towards-inside or outside, and determines if the piece is a driving component during assembly (place and fixture me first, basically).

I picked a good place to put the “T-rex slots” that don’t require repositioning the gear hub. Also notice the 45 degree forward-canted backstop on the top edge. That is your Valkyrie Preventer. Quite a few bots have this kind of rail feature on their front empennages, and I tried to live-add some to 30Haul before its match with BEAM (And they held on great until the end, which is when….. the thing happened).

The next step is to add the keying slots and tabs. It’s taken me a while, but I finally over the past 3 or so years became more comfortable with fixturing for welding. Previously a lot of my designs featured full-edge stitching of tabs and slots. While it was quick to put together for welding, it either 1. introduced a bunch of protrusions or 2. made the weld bead density high enough that I’d lose a lot of material strength to the heat-affected zone. Nowdays I tend to only key stuff together at the very corners and edges where they’d otherwise shift the most, or are hardest to fixture.

The final design after adding and adjusting some clearances with fillets. Notice how I trimmed off the outer corners of the wedge to slope downards to The Snout region – I wanted to prevent a glancing blow coming from the rear of this assembly, say I drove up next to or turned into some spinner the wrong way, from just blowing the whole thing off the front of the bot.

Next up was generating the new T-Rex arms. I went back to derive off the “master sketch” defining the bot for this one. These are going to be skinny on purpose, just giving me a modicum of lifting ability.

I knocked these out pretty quickly – edgy teeth for edginess, and a downward-facing tang that will allow me to use the bottom set of arms as a clamp of sorts if the actual clamp arm itself falls off.

Here’s what they’ll look like hiding inside the wedge. They live about 1/8″ below the surface.

Yes, I risk them not going back down if they are hit while raised, but at some point, you have to come down to the good ol’ LTFD: Let’s Throw Falafels Down, or so they say, and not attack an active weapon with the arms up.

The decidedly less threatening looking T-rex arms shown in a raised position. Immediately behind the center “barrier strip” is the singular standoff that keeps them together as well as serves as the pin joint for the clamp actuator.

Other small kibbles I needed to make for 30Haul – chain guide blocks, similar to those on Overhaul. The drive chains were sized for slightly loose tension, and they never fell off I guess but had become so sloppy I think they’d definitely fall off in any serious match. The guide just pinches them together very slightly.

Last up was changing the wheel hub design to one more reflective of Overhaul’s inner and outer wheels. 30Haul’s wheels were designed to be sacrificed and the bot geometry set in support of driving with one or more wheels out. In fact, at one of the Orlando Maker Faire matches, it lost a wheel almost right away to a flipper shot and I drove the entire match thereafter barely noticing.

That’s the kind of performance I want from Overhaul as well.

30Haul’s wheels tended to fall off as a single block since I made them use very long spacers that spanned both Vex wheels. Overhaul now has some very solid wheel hubs and chomky axles for the inner pair, and the outer (and optional) pair is attached via composite fiberglass-filled nylon bolts.

I changed the wheel and hub design for 30Haul to use aluminum standoffs for the inner pair and nylon standoffs with regular nylon screws. Hopefully this means the outer set has a tendency to shed first.

With all that CAD through, I sent out some metal cutting orders to my now hometown heroes Big Blue Saw (a proud sponsor of Overhaul 3!). Luckily, being nearby and all, I can just drop materials in my possession off instead of ordering through the website. I had leftover Hardox 450 from Overhaul’s build that I had the steel company cut up into 12″ x 24″ plates, one of which was perfect for one 30Haul’s worth of improvements.

Now, onto the actual bot.

It didn’t really need much work at all after Orlando Maker Faire, but it has been sitting on a shelf for a good year or so, and I slowly stole parts out of it (such as the TBS Crossfire rig) for other stuff in the works. Famous ending to many of my projects. So it was good to just take everything apart and give it the once-over.

What spare parts I didn’t make prior to Orlando Maker Faire, both from timing and the lack of heavy-hitter opponents, I went and knocked out now. This primarily involved more wheel hub parts, which were now a lot easier because I had a lathe more correctly sized for making them.

Some of the newly redesigned wheel hubs going together – this is the aluminum and real hardware layer, on the inner wheels. Notice there’s still a nylon 3D printed Fancy Spacer between the metal? I’d still rather these inner spacers bend and break off one by one versus take out the entire sprocket, if it went that far.

One wheel has aluminum threaded standoffs, the other unthreaded nylon spacers.

And they go together thusly, identical from the outside.

I finally get to make a _robot part_ with New Tinylathe, you say!? Well, New Tinylathe is also now just seeing its first year in my possession, so it’s about time. I had to make a pretty solid spacer to handle the torque of lifting, from the big lift gear to the T-rex arms since they’re spaced more tightly together and made of thinner material. The base part itself is an aluminum flanged donut with an 8-hole pattern. That is conceptually simple.

What’s less simple is the fact that I hadn’t picked up any metrology tools for the Benchmaster, Master of Benches yet, not that it deserves any. As mentioned before, I’ve gone back to my “vernacular machining” habits learned on trashy student-stop machinery at MIT and back in high school with friend’s shops. Running things into each other (carefully, with respect) is your edge finder. Open-loop holding the dials against backlash, and using Sharpie marks (who has time for layout dye?) is your “readout”. Actually using the “Normal” and “Loose” clearance fits for hardware is magic.

Trigonometry and symmetry are your friends as well. I managed to knock out this 8-bolt pattern (Of which only 7 are filled, as one of them presents accessibility problems for servicing – so fuck you) largely by feel. I’ll be damned if any of these go through.

I don’t need the entire donut for strength and would like the ounces back, so I had to cut out the center to make a spool-like piece. I did this by plunging multiple times with this insert cutoff tool, then just abusing it to make very shallow turning cuts at the bottom of the radius.

A couple of days later, the Big Blue Saw parts show up, so it’s time for some happy welding fun before I ship off to Connecticut!

Robot Ruckus at Orlando Maker Faire: How to Somewhat Scale-Model Test Your BattleBots

Hello everyone. Here’s a photo of Überclocker 5 experiencing Waffle House for the first time, alongside Earl of Bale Spear team, who makes a better “BIG CHUCK” figure than I ever will.

Let that image never fade from the collective knowledge of mankind.

Anyways, as Robot Ruckus approached, I had to figure out how to get my bots all the way to Florida. Taking a week or so to drive there and back was kind of out of my realm of possibility at the time, so I decided to run a little bit of a relay race with the HUGE team.  They’re in Connecticut , which is either a suburb of New York or Boston depending on who you talk to.

I delivered Sadbot, Clocker, a tote of spare parts, and a toolbox to them one fine Sunday afternoon. They were then going to drive everything – Huge included to Earl in New Jersey (if you recall, Earl also brought Overhaul to Battlebots in 2018!) upon which he will travel to Florida. So after the delivery, I had plenty of time to do Other Stuff before flying down to Orlando.

Upon my arrival, I obviously had to grab a rental car. I figured that I’d get the shittiest econobox possible since I wasn’t going many places, just to the event and a hotel room. Well, when I got the reservation and headed over to the rental car garage, it turns out the company was out of shitty econoboxes.

So what now, do I get a free bicycle instead? Nope. Free upgrade time! The garage handlers throw me a key fob which I assume was to the small dorky crossover nearby.

Nope, behind that:

Thanks, I hate it.

Let me be very clear: I’ve forgotten how to drive. No, not in general, but remember what I’m mentally calibrated and trained to for years: Being high up and on top of the front axle, and having a very short or nonexistent hood.  THIS WAS NEITHER. You cannot see out of these. Not out the sides, not out the back, and barely out the front.  I guess that’s the trade for prioritizing looking cool and edgy. For yours truly, stepping into any modern car requires some zen and meditation, and a constant reminder that I now have a front.

I am always terrified of automatically failing over into “van mode” while driving anything rental, and going full Unintended Acceleration into a store or dumpster or fire hydrant as I try to park 1 foot away from something.

How fast does it go? Greater than Van. I dunno man, I don’t have a good sense for How To Fast. My friends who work at GM (who had to listen to me complain about it in real-time) said it likely has the rental-car spec turbocharged 4-cylinder Ecotec engine, which may explain why I was experience what I swore was turbo lag, but more likely might be several inter-related drive feel variables like any economy modes it was stuck in.

2019 Chevrolet Camaro: Faster than a 1986 Ford Econoline.


Also, this interior panel fell off while I was heading back from the event at one point. It snapped back in, of course, but seriously?

The trip from the airport to my hotel was made in complete darkness, in the rain. Great. So I’m sitting 2 inches off the floor behind 8 feet of snout, unable to see anything, trying to figure out why every new car is a forsaken spaceship simulator inside, and mingling with other equally lost tourists trying to figure out their own rental cars on the fly. Through several construction zones, to boot. I guess I’m glad I went ahead and got the full-plausible-deniability add-on.

When I arrived at the event the next morning, I found Uberclocker like this.


Aaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwww. Earl took it in a South of the Border restaurant apparently, and they had these convenient accessories available.


I unloaded totes and began setting the bots and infrastructure up for safety inspections.


Sadbot was up first against the multibot Crash and Burn, built by Fingertech Robotics (incidentally, a Ragebridge dealer!) and which has done very well at Robogames events. They were running in kind of a reduced functionality state for this event, so it was more or less a pushing match. Sadbot is obviously a great shape to get pushed around, so it went about as expected with the exception of me getting a few good shoves in. At one point, I took a huge gouge out of the railroad tie side bumpers with the log splitter tip. It definitely did its job.

In the first 30 seconds of the match, the lifter controller popped. Uh oh!


It was a pre-production 12-FET brushless Rage board that I pulled out of a bucket labeled “SAD RAGEBRIDGES” and wired up. I probably deserved this.

It would appear I neglected to solder some of the pins on the MOSFET packge. Quality control! That probably popped as soon as it saw any heavy load. I replaced it with a “production model” I brought along in the pile of Equals Zero wares.

What’s more important, though, was the powertrain holding up great for that entire match of me running around and into things. The C80/100 drive motors were lukewarm, and so was the aluminum heat spreader plate in the electronics deck. And even better? I loved driving the damn thing. I mean, saying it handled like Overhaul 1 would be cheeky. Obviously from the video, I took a while to get re-engaged with bot dynamics. But afterwards, it felt like driving a big 30lber, which is my desired effect. Big wheels and conservative gearing seems to be holding up so far.

Sadbot’s next match wasn’t going to be until Sunday at this point, so I decided to take the opportunity to go to Home Depot and grab some….

…masking tape, a big wire brush, and some spraypaint.

This thing has always needed a paint job, and I wanted to paint the frame pastel purple to match the Miku blue and pink attachment aesthetics. Well what better time than now? It was a bright and only somewhat windy day outside and around 70-something degrees. I brushed off the accumulated rust and grunge on the outside and had at it. Paint+Primer, you say? I dare you.

So there you have it. Sadbot will be purple from now on.

My next match was against the other multibot, Macaroni and Cheese. The matchups are “DETERMINED RANDOMLY”, or so I am told. Maybe the random quantum computer just really likes seeing multibots get thrown around.

I went a little more hard-headed in this match with the added confidence of the previous fight, more actively chasing as well as trying to back off from engagements. I stayed to a “I weigh more than thee” strategy instead of trying to capture with the pokey dingle, and managed to drive both halves in the wall a good few times, including propping them both up by the end.

One of these power charges had the unfortunate side effect of making Sadbot somewhat droopy.

Ah well. This match was a much more aggressive one from the stick perspective. I purposefully drove like the maniac I should be driving like, to see if I could get anything to upset itself. The motors got warmer, but not concerningly warm, and I unfortunately neglected to take a controller temperature.

I asked Earl to use Farmer Force™ to straighten out the pokey dingle a little – the upside of it being slightly bent was it at least touched the floor.


Sadbot’s final matchup was against Kraken, the actual BattleBots entry. This was finally a chance to drive a match against an opponent of equal weight, and what an intense driving match it was – I went full hard as if it the Giant Nut depended on it. This thing also perfectly fit in Kraken’s trap, as I found out. I kept the pokey dingle at a height to engage Kraken “in the jaws”, and did it once and drove it into the corner. However, once we recovered, Kraken got a better bite on the lid, which led to…

Oops. That’s the outrunner’s wires getting squashed into the rotor. One of the downsides of using external rotor’d motors is you have to pay a lot of attention to where your wires are going. It would have been better to make this a side-exit mounting instead of top-exit. Overhaul, if I keep this drive setup, will definitely have an external shield over the rotor to prevent this.

The wires took a little while to get chewed through, during which it was shooting sparks out the side of the bot which I thought was the controller exploding. I lost this side of drive around 75% of the way through the match, so had to play defense and pivot to keep facing Kraken. Anyhow, I couldn’t find any explosion signs on that Brushless Rage, but I also didn’t feel like repairing this at the event after the Heavyweight bracket ran out of time – originally, each bot was supposed to get 4 matchups, but only we had three in the end. This will be a forensic investigation for later!


Clocker got off to a …. great? Memeful? start by fighting “Marty”.

I’m going to let the video explain itself. Well, I found out it’s definitely front heavy, but it’s also compounded by the fact that Marty is enormous. I also found out this match that Clocker gets stuck on the floors very easily here – they’re plate steel laid on wood foundation, and definitely were shifting around as the event wore on. That’s one of the foils to having a super low wedge in BattleBots – the arena floor will only get shittier, and you’ll definitely regret missing your charges. It’s a tradeoff – possibly get stuck or bounce off a seam, but have weight on the ground.

After I parked the bot at the end of the match, I noticed when picking it up that the lifter was actually seized. What on earth?

It would seem that I #HardParked it maybe a little too much, and the P61 bent in half.

Uh oh. This is maybe an engineering oversight, but the failure mode is also a little infuriating. See, the P6x series shafts neck down to 10mm no matter what diameter you order them as, to pass through the bearings which are of limited size to support the mounting hole pattern. They’re also made of stainless steel.


This last part I don’t really get, but basically the shafts are rather soft. So once the preload on the screws is overcome, the whole thing will buckle. Maybe I should have secured them with a 2nd plane or backup plate of some sort. Or maybe I should have used a face-mount technique instead so there’s no “gear climbing” force. Or maybe…

Okay, whatever. I didn’t need the full torque that the 45:1 ratio was going to give – I more did it for a limited lifter speed, but I suppose that’s why I took the care of engineering clutches into Overhaul, and Clockers Past, so it didn’t consume itself.

That’s why you might have noticed the bot split in two for service during Sadbot’s segment. I managed to get a P60 from another team that was the 16:1, two stage ratio, so I had to fiddle it into the bot. This involved cutting the height spacer down in length because the mounting pattern changed. Luckily, I anticipated something dumb like this happening, and the bottom rail has both the 2:1 and 3:1 pattern.

The only downside of going 16:1 is the lifter will be almost hammer-speed. But this could be entertaining in its own right!

Clocker’s next fight was against Ascend, a very powerful 30lb pneumatic flipper. This was going to be a durability test!

It was hard to get under using conventional means, so I mostly had to drive around it and hope to catch it vulnerable post-flip. I also spent an infuriating amount of time trying to get out of a floor seam.  Clocker went flying several times in the fight, which was the shakedown test I wanted.

Near the end, it got stuck upside down because the retaining bolt for the lift axle on the left (gear) side actually backed out and fell out somewhere!  So the gear just skipped as I tried to put it back upright. I managed to get one good grab-and-lift and a couple of other pushes, but didn’t prevail in the decision.

What was cool was I actually got a wheel nibbled off from a direct flipper shot in the first 30 seconds, then drove the entire rest of the match on 3 wheels. Just fine.

This was very exciting. To me, this means if I can keep the chain and inner hubs on, I can treat the wheels very disposably. Not that I’d do it as an explicit tactic, but as get out of jail cards if the situation forced it.

In Overhaul, I’d likely keep the inner wheel tightly retained while the outers are left to float on plastic/shear-rated hardware. I have a few ideas of how to do this for Clocker itself come Motorama.

Another downside of just coupling your actuator to the bot lazily: When your actuator suddenly has 3 times the power, it’s gonna start consuming itself! Remember I put a 42mm brushless on the leadscrew drive instead of the usual 500-class drill motor.  Overhaul has a dedicated trunnion on the lift hub, this is just me not wanting to bother redesigning everything after the lift gear to use a 30lb-scaled one.

The lift motor didn’t blow itself up this time, and in a way I found the lessened torque to be more tolerable. I still clearly had grab and lift ability, but now with the weight of the bot having more leverage against the motor, I noticed I could “trim” the bot better in that match. I’d stick-down just a bit, and gradually the thing finds its self-levelling point. I could then periodically stick-down to refresh it, in a way.

All patched up after wheel service.

Clocker’s 3rd and last fight was against BEEESS???!! (You must only say its name with the upward questioning inflection). I found it hard to get a grab on with his defensive tines sticking out everywhere, so this match was just a lot of driving practice.

And that’s it. Sadbot came away 1/2, and Clocker ended up 2/1! After the event was packed up, I sent the bots back up north with Earl and picked them up from Connecticut again the week after.

Well, not before getting up to some shenanigans in the dark behind the building.

Sadbot, being “Extremely robot shaped” as we termed it, was used as a test dummy by a few teams with lifters/grabbers. Here is a future possible BattleBots entry, Claw Viper, tuning lift motor settings using Sadbot as a dead weight.

The Real Giant Nut was the Lessons We Learned Along The Way

So I’ll do a  more in-depth discussion of the implications for Overhaul separately as its own design series. But here were my two biggest takeaways from this event:

  • If I can make the equation “Overhaul 3 drives like Sadbot drives like Overhaul 1” work, then I feel far more confident bringing sexy back in the arena. I’m satisfied with this powertrain setup, consisting of the single 80mm brushless motor on a Brushless Rage, geared conservatively for about 13mph, and back riding on big blobby wheels.  What I’d probably do is use this as an initial design path, but have a failover ESC solution (VESC controllers have grown up a lot in the past 2 years) as well as a failover brush DC solution. I have some candidates in mind for the latter which I tested over these few months and think are a good idea. More on that later!
  • Clocker was a great architectural test beyond what I intended to accomplish. I definitely wasn’t counting on losing a wheel here! The bot was vastly easier to maintain, even replacing the lift gearbox with a different ratio. I now know that the frame should get longer to better grab and lift – part of the issues stemmed from having to move the front wheels so far back. The small poker wedge legs worked out reasonably, but I’d probably want to make several kinds because of the arena floor. There’s only minor changes and mods I want to make before Motorama. For one, it needs to test the DETHPLOW architecture for Overhaul, and maybe implement my 2-stage breakaway wheels.

One thing to note about Clocker is that I should have dropped the Angerbox clamp drive system to a single stage. I’ve basically done away with the requirement that either Clocker or Overhaul can crush stuff. The clamp should therefore be fast to close, something it wasn’t really at this event. Clocker and Overhaul will likely run single-stage gearing into their clamps for future events.

Between these two major differential tests, I think I have a good handle on what Overhaul 3 has to be.

Namely, it should be Sadbot, but with a grabber and lif….. wait a minute. #holup I swear I’ve built this bot before.