More P-P-P-Power than your Arduino has room for

Have you ever felt the urge to control multi-horsepower electric motors?

with an arduino?

Doesn’t quite work like that…

A few months ago, I did. During that time, Super LOLrioKart and the mini-CityCar were both looking for a compact 36 to 48 volt, 1-brushless-and-1-dc motor control solution of roughly the same power requirements. The attentive reader (all -2 of you) would notice that a few months ago, I didn’t yet possess the skills to design printed circuit boards, and I would be hard pressed to make a good power converter on the back of an Arduino protoshield, or a chunk of perfboard.

Actually, I’ve tried before, and it failed miserably.

But the cool thing about the MITERS clique is that there is alot of cross collaboration. Being mechanical engineers, Shane Colton and I naturally build electronics, power converters, and motor controllers (because those are totally things that mechanical engineers do). And so, at my constant (b)egging, he created the Hexbridge shield, and then refined it to version 2, which is more compact and… more functional.

And now, the (impending) torch has been passed to me. So my goal is to make this thing run a standard sensored brushless DC motor, kind of like a more elegant FVM. It would be the first time I code up a BLDC controller of any kind, Arduino or otherwise, and is the logical step after creating the Kartroller’s H-bridge drive.

The rundown on the Hexbridge shield (/Hexshield): 12-48 volts (nominal) operating range. 30 amps or so continuous operation, more (50-60+) with special attention and addons such as trace reinforcement. Six half-bridges grouped into two gangs of three, i.e. enough to make two BLDC motor controllers. The two gangs each operate off 1 Arduino PWM pin (namely, D9 and D10). The FETs are D2PAK IRFB3207 units, good to several quintillion amps and according to folklore, will desolder themselves long before burning up due to heat!

Because you the user programs the Arduino part, it really can be anything.

As noted, more shields can fit on top of the Hexbridge.

In this case, I’ve put together the Arduino WireBrushLess Tower, the future wireless brushless DC motor controller. The XBee radio module takes commands over the air and the Arduino can read them via its serial port. The idea is to have all of these controllable from a command console in order to make vehicles that go whichever direction you feel like without worrying about tangling control cables.

The small protoboard area next to the Xbee acts as a convenient signal interface stage. The long header presents 3 Hall Effect sensor inputs, logic power, and ground.

For now, I’ll forego the “wireless” part and just use a knob to control the thing. So, the small header is designed to take one knob as input.

In a coming post (when I get around to it), I’ll explain how the knob can actually be a very special magnetic absolute position encoder… for, you know, keeping track of the position of wheel modules which might spin more than 360 degrees at a time.

Here’s the knob wired up, along with some hall sensors.

… but from what are those hall sensors originating from?

The brushless Etek is my favorite Absurdly Large Load to test small controllers with. Everything from Turnigy airplane controllers to the DEC module has seen this thing. It’s both the largest “normal cheap motor” after Briggs and Stratton ditched the original Etek, as well as the smallest “big motor” that is easily available on the grey market.

I quickly whipped up some Arduino code using FVM as a guide for the state table. Overall, the process and structure are similar to what I made for Kartroller 6 – first arrange the outputs to account for the state of the system, then apply the throttle signal. In the case of Kartroller, the states were “forward” and “reverse”. With a BLDC motor like this, there are six states to cycle through to achieve one electrical revolution. “Reverse” on a BLDC motor is just stepping backwards through the table.

Here’s a video (10 megs .MOV) of some of the testing done with the Etek motor. Of course, it’s not a particularly strenuous test at all – the power supply limits itself to 3 or 4 amps at most. What it does show, however, is the built-in synchronous rectification topology that the IR21844s facilitate. Non-regenerative motor controllers will just let the motor coast if I let off the throttle, but a synchronous regenerative one automagically shuffles current in either direction to match the voltages between the motor back EMF and power bus.

Now, the problem with a power supply is that they generally do not approve of having current backfed into them. The voltage will spike as a effort to fight the inflow of current, and this power supply knew when to avoid getting hurt… That is why makers of regenerative controllers always advise putting a battery (or hugeasspacitor) in parallel between a power supply and the controller.

Well, that’s all for now. There are still three whole half-bridges left unused…

Karthook!

MITERS is the greatest thing that has ever happened to the world (or specifically just me), but while it has copious amounts of tools, test equipment, machinery, and an almost gratuitous amount of parts, it lacks space. Having been to other non-academically affiliated hackerspaces (such as Freeside Atlanta), I realize how outclassed we are in our capacity to host projects. Despite that, we’ve stacked up a whole bunch of “large”, generally vehicular contraptions, including the beloved LOLrioKart.

LOLrioKart takes up a good portion of floor space in the back half of the room and is occasionally used to store all my crap. It’s also a pain to move around because of its mass, and a pain to work on the electricals because they are all very low to the ground. If I want to test the drivetrain, I had to lift the kart and balance it on a set of automotive jacks. Don’t even mention that time I had to swap the battery packs…

So for a while, I had wanted a lift or crane to suspend the kart from. I didn’t take the idea seriously until Spring term ended, when I started looking for options. I became partial to a ceiling-mounted hoist because of the ability to send the kart all the way to the top for storage and extra floor space.

The kart only weighs about 200 pounds empty, which is a essentially trivial load in the world of winches and cranes. MIT building N52 used to be a factory, and factories in the early 20th century were built to last forever. The ceilings are all solid concrete, more than a foot thick. Essentially, almost anything would have worked, and I briefly considered just gearing down a beefy DC motor instead of buying a specifically designed winch or hoist motor.

But as luck would have it, Craigslist produced a pristine example of an ATV winch for sale locally, so I quickly jumped on it.

This Master Lock (I thought they just sold locks, but I was wrong) unit seems to be a pretty standard offer in the world of cheap generic utility winches. It made some substellar sounds when loaded and the drum finish was pretty rough, but I’m going to assume that it won’t kill me. Too badly, anyway.

The mounting holes in the winch frame were located in a place where I couldn’t access them with a powered screw driving tool. They were designed to be mounted to brackets first, which are in turn mounted to your choice of stationary reference frame.

…so I had to devise my own. This 3/8″ aluminum plate was just hanging out in the cave of materials. I could probably have waterjetted any number of small robot parts from it, but hey.

The two large middle holes are countersunk on the other side to fit 5/16″-18 socket head cap screws. The six surrounding holes are countersunk to fit some 1/4″ flathead concrete bolts. MITERS had a large stock of “tapcon” style concrete screws (which do not use anchors), probably from back when we bolted stuff to the ceiling all the time.

Because bolting things to the ceiling isn’t exactly a precision machining activity, I used spraypaint and sprayed a pattern into the ceiling, using the mounting plate as a template.

The winch itself is mounted using two 5/16″-18 socket head cap screws and grade 8 nuts and washers. This should not be the first failure point.

A little while later…

I borrowed a hammerdrill and a 5/32″ concrete bit and went to town on the ceiling. Reportedly, the hammering noise was ungodly loud, even on the third floor. I guess that’s what happens when you bang on a solid concrete building.

I learned that a hammerdrill is best used not under intense drilling pressure, but rather under modest pressure. If you push too hard, you dampen the chiseling action and the effect is diminished. This was well reflected in me taking almost half a minute to drill the first hole – but the last only took 5 seconds.

Unfortunately, attempt #1 to mount the winch didn’t go well. I made the mistake of reading a different box of screws (which specified a 5/32″ drill). 1/4″ tapcon screws need a 3/16″ drill. The difference meant that I managed to shear off the screw halfway into the final depth.

Epic fail.

I quickly went back with a 3/16″ bit to expand the other holes, and the rest went well. Friends and cohorts spotted the high-altitude work and helped hold the 25 pound winch up while I drove in the screws.

But after much sweat, concrete dust, and loud construction noises…

FLYING LOLRIOKART

Well, at least I know my five-bolted rig can hold up 1 LOLrioKart. The only power supply strong enough to supply the current demand of the winch was a big Optima lead-acid battery.

Because this is a shady winch being held up by shady screws into shady century-old concrete, we started piling heavy things into the kart to see if we could find the maximum load. Helmets and face shields were aplenty during this exercise, because even if the kart was only 1″ off the ground during it, the falling 20-odd pounds of steel were a concern.

Things piled into the kart include two truck disc brakes (60 pounds), the lead acid battery (50 pounds), the Defibrillator (a.k.a the kart charger, 25 pounds), one brushless Etek (25 pounds), a huge linear power supply (25 pounds), and a milling vise (40 pounds). Powered lifts and interrupted drops were attempted to put force on the mounting, but it was solid. I think it’s proved itself.

Assuming I did install the screws correctly and that the concrete is not crumbly, each 1/4″ concrete screw is rated to a maximum of 1,100 pounds assuming a 1.5″ depth. There are five holding the plate to the ceiling for a cool ultimate tensile strength of 5,000 pounds. Even accounting for imperfections, the winch should stall long before the screws pull out. It’s still unlikely that I’ll ever allow anything more than the kart by itself to be hoisted, or items of similar weight, because it can get overhead and that can end badly.

Yup, it’s a hoverkart. Any questions?