The Tale of Econocrane: The Summer Fling of 2022; Or, More Twin-Turbo System Testing!

I received the message during the middle of Sunday at Momocon.

Come and get it. 700

– this dude

Still donning my trademark cat ear headphones, I ran through the crowd towards one of the many exits of the Georgia World Congress Center in a attempt to get some reception for the U-Haul trailer reservation.

It was too late in the day by then to get out and do the retrieval, so we struck a time for Monday. The next morning, I hitched up Vantruck at the local U-Haulmongers. At this point, these guys basically know me by name, and I pretty much just walk up and grab whatever I need. This is how you know things have gotten really bad.

So what the hell was I getting? Behold, this absolute something:

That’s… yeah, you know what. I don’t know either. Because I always have a heartbeat on the regional terrible diesel Ford van market, I tend to see listings pop up not long after they’re posted. And trust me, due to the prevalence of the van chassis in commercial applications, there are a lot of oddities.

This thing actually showed up for me back in August of 2021, and I went to inspect it at that time. It was located across town in the “acres of metal recycling yards, tire shops, and half burnt-down apartments” neighborhood, of which Atlanta actually has a couple but that’s besides the point. At that point the seller wanted $2500, which was quite optimistic for a non running chopped up ambulance chassis without a title. I figured I’d let it bake for a while before lowballing him, and then promptly forgot about it due to the impending Battlebots season and the fact that, you know, I already had three of these damn things.

That was, until that fateful Sunday. Basically, he was going to junk it the following week so it was me or the yard from whence it came. That’s right – I learned from him that he bought it from a junkyard which had built it as a side project. It certainly fit the bill, with a 12 foot flatbed and that makeshift towing empennage for dragging scraps around.

You know what? A little over the dollar amount it would have scrapped for is a great value for (YET ANOTHER) potential engine donor for Vantruck. If I build up a big enough pile of vans, surely one of them will be useful, right?

It was clearly an ambulance chassis with the box removed, and it still had the ambulance light and siren control console (but with all of the wiring scrapped out of it). The odometer showed around 58,000 miles, which seemed reasonable to me – ambulances usually don’t go very far, just idle and hang around a lot.

With immense difficulty, the seller and four of his buddies helped me winch the thing onto the tow dolly. Everyone made sure to take their guns out of their pockets and put them on the sidewalk beforehand, because safety first! We promptly discovered the front axle was too wide for the tow dolly – the lug nuts were digging into the plastic fenders, and there was no flex room available (These tow dollies rotate slightly at the axle centerline to aid in turning).

After some “SURGERY”, the right fender of the tow dolly and right side step of the… thing were removed, as right turns would necessarily be tighter and require more articulation. I bought a round of beverages for all involved for the three hours of finoodling this took.

And an hour later, I’ve bestowed yet another eyesore upon the neighborhood. A pox upon my house in particular, said my neighbors, presumably. As night fell, I prepared the tools and substances needed to perform a routine Unknown IDI Diesel Reboot. I’m not sure if I should be proud that this is now an SOP for me.

So in the end, this thing needed…. absolutely nothing.

Yup. Two freshly charged batteries and cleaned up cables and terminal clamps and off we went. I didn’t even get to use the Spicy Canned Air.

The general vibe with these old engines is that they need 1.21 jiggawatts to build the compression and to run the glow plug system, so any decay in the electrical system will quickly affect their ability to start. And for most people, batteries and electrical systems are basically black magic, which is why so many of these listings say “Needs fuel pump idk” when the real issue is they can’t turn over fast enough to light off.

I pulled it gently off the dolly and slowly backed up the driveway – that front tire had fallen off the bead, so it couldn’t be inflated. I had to replace at least 3 tires due to dry rot anyhow, so no biggie.

Not wanting to extend my U-Haul rental another day, I had to now put the fender back on before returning it. Mikuvan acted as the yard shunt to get the dolly closer to the garage. These fenders have 4 bolts holding them on, but the light is not on a connector – we had to cut the cable off, so I had to reattach it.

I quickly spliced the cord back together with some solder-shrink splices. Notice that these wires have already been spliced once? Makes you wonder if someone has been in here before with the same idea.

Maybe I should mark that down as pre-existing damage on my rental contract…

Nobody will ever know the truth.

The following weekend, I made a trip to my favorite local Hispanic-owned used tire peddler, where the tires are stacked high and haphazardly. These nice folks also know me well at this point since I keep showing up with terrible van after terrible van. I had to replace three of the tires (the passenger front and both rears) because I was concerned about how much they were flaking apart in my hands.

This was a good chance to actually see the difference between a real Ford dual rear wheel axle setup and Vantruck’s fake dually conversion. That’s right, for the longest time, Centurion didn’t use a true DRW axle because Ford didn’t make the > 8500 pound GVWR cutaway van chassis yet. Vantruck has dually spacers, front and back!

This makes its front track very slightly narrower than the factory dually setup here. But it seems like that makes all the difference when it comes to fitting on the U-Haul tow dolly.

On the rear axle, the drum brakes are wider, there are more leaf springs, and the aftermarket ambulance upfit also added airbags. This is a 11,000 pound gross weight chassis based on the door sticker. Vantruck, in comparison, has a 9,900 pound label (probably for regulatory reasons) and the heaviest GVWR stock non-cutaway van of the time was 8,500 pound.

The most notable feature of this abomination is the homemade tow rig sticking out the back. It’s a vernacular attempt at a hook-and-sling wrecker, as far as I could tell. The body is entirely made of 1/4″ thick diamond-plate steel welded (WELDED) to the frame with 1/2″ thick plates and 1/4″ thick angle irons. WELDED. This whole thing was rigid!

The Towing Empennage was held in with bolts and backed up by these chain binders which appeared to brace it further up the bed. I’m guessing it’s removable for hauling or picking up scrap metal, and attached whenever it has to go recover a WE PAY $$$$ FOR JUNK CARS subject.

Just like an old-school tow truck, it was run by a winch and cable instead of hydraulics. This is just a 12,000 pound off-road winch, bolted to the body. It still worked if hooked up – I winched up the tow bar so it wasn’t at Stab Everyone In The Face height by gently tapping a battery with alligator clips to it.

Overall, I respected the builder. As I said, it was clearly a vernacular attempt at making a utility vehicle for a job at hand. There was nothing that I found outright wrong or incorrectly made. Really! Someone had a appreciable learned-on-the-fly understanding of structures and the strength of materials. The welding was messy, but all solid looking.

It’s not how I would have done it if you told me “Make a tow truck that’s also a flatbed that’s also a shitty cut up ambulance”. But it’s how someone did it, and the sheer effort put into crafting a singular and unique tool like this is something I can bro-nod at.

Via my terrible vehicle chat groups, this object was christened Econocrane, for being made from a Ford Econoline chassis and having a crane sticking out the back.

As I said up top, while the mechanical and fabrication skills needed to bang something like this together is more common, the electrical complement is not. This is the level of spaghetti wiring that was prevalent throughout the cabin and towards the rear here. I had to chase these dragons upstream a little to find the original van tail light and body lighting harness.

That’s because it didn’t really have any taillights to speak of. I ordered these “Generic Truck Combination Light” units and bolted them to the side of the bed so I could at least drive it places.

In this photo: A tow truck that is doing useful work, and a tow truck that is ???????!!!!!!

As expected, Econocrane was slow. The immensely heavy all-steel bed and empennage made it feel somehow slower than Snekvan when I got it running, almost Murdervan-tier with its older 3 speed transmission. Driving it was very binary – it was pretty much either full beans or nothing, also a common sentiment among vintage diesel owners. I never took it over a truck scale, but I was betting this was north of 7500 pounds given all the 1/2″ and 1/4″ steel plates making up the back half.

Speaking of, the transmission also seemed to be on the way out, as it needed a few seconds to think and build up pressure or something if it ever was taken out of Drive. It also had a habit of holding first gear forever then smashing into second or third. Definitely a rebuild core if I ended up sacrificing this thing.

I took Econocrane around town and to the lab a few times because… hey, why not scare your coworkers some more!? I also took it back to the junkyard I THOUGHT might have been responsible for it. They denied all knowledge of it ever existing.

Sus. To be fair, there are probably a half dozen scrap yards around here and the seller couldn’t remember where he got it from, only pointed thattaway.

At one point, I followed the cab wiring around to see if I could get the sirens to turn on again. Unfortunately these sirens ended up being just big loudspeakers, not the self-contained kind. So they needed the controller, which had been ripped out long ago.

If a Ford van chassis is impossible to service, then an ambulance integration piled on top of it is basically needing quantum entanglement to change a fuel filter. These ambulance builds usually add a lot more wiring, switches, lights, etc. and this one in particular had several runs of underhood heavy-gauge power wiring added, including a master shutoff and a current shunt (seen top center above the grille).

Heavy wiring also extended out the former cab back, presumably to an inverter to supply house power to the “ambulance” bit. A big electrical distribution box was placed under the driver’s seat which fanned these wires out from the engine bay feeder. Coolant and A/C hoses also were greater in number than a typical van since the box would have needed climate control. On top of all that, there were controls for the air suspension.

I continue to maintain Ford never intended for anyone to “service” these things so much as run up the 50-80K miles in a fleet before problems start appearing and then sell it down the river. To me. All of them.

It’s turbo time!

Econocrane was funny to have as an object for a few weeks, but beyond being visually interesting, it was just another 1991 IDI chassis much like Snekvan was. By July, Snekvan had long been knocked down and taken by the methy scrap man, with all of the turbo parts stashed. I began wondering if it was worth putting a second prototype together.

This would allow me to start clean and basically see if I could put my own “turbo kit” together and what issues I’d encounter with an from-scratch install. Snekvan had been built very incrementally and there wasn’t really a data package or installation notes besides whatever I scribbled in my notebook. Because I wasn’t sure if I could even manage the swap project, the plan for Vantruck all along as been to perform the swap first, then install my setup, instead of doing it all at once.

Econocrane therefore became an opportunity to refine the design and process. So I challenged myself: Could I do the full install in a weekend?

Let’s begin. First, I removed the PCV valve (or CDR, or the ham can…) in preparation to turn it around. The PCV has to be attached to a source of atmospheric air or mild suction instead of boost pressure, so it can’t point directly into the intake manifold any more.

I used an expanding pipe plug to block off the vent hole. Snekvan simply used a rubber grommet silicone glued in place.

The CDR turnaround bracket was reused in full from Snekvan, including the heavy hydraulic hose stumps used to convert the flush output hole into something I can put a breather hose in.

Snekvan just had the glow plug controller hanging randomly wherever, but I went ahead and formalized the measurements and made a bracket out of aluminum that will let the glow plug controller bolt in slightly lower. This was one of the points of improvements I sought to make, as one of the problems for people turbocharging the IDI is always repositioning this glow plug controller.

A lot of creative solutions involving valve covers and extension brackets exist, but I was hoping I could escape the worst of the engine bay cramming with my approach. This bracket makes it so that no wire cutting/extending has to happen.

I just twisted the harness around to face the other way, and bolted it in.

The turbos and downpipes were already made for Snekvan, so installing these two was quick and painless. The same main oil gallery spigot on the driver’s side rear corner of the engine block was used for the turbo oil feed.

I routed remaining segments of the “slinky hose” from the turbo outputs up to the engine bay. On the right, it follows the transmission dipstick. On the left, the auxiliary (rear) heater hoses act as a guide. Vantruck does not have these hoses so I’ll have to figure out another way to constrain it.

Notice the left hose is black and the right is orange. The left one is made of neoprene, which is not oil resistant. I just had it standing around and decided to use it instead of buying more silicone hose. This would prove to be a mistake as it melted after a while, so later on it was replaced with more orange silicone hose.

In one morning/lunch period, the turbos were installed and hoses run. Not bad so far!

Up at the front of the engine, I made another turbo oil return assembly by drilling a panel-mount barb fitting into the timing gear inspection cover.

I decided to go for broke right away and cranked up the fueling on the injection pump all the way. I think it was around 1.5 turns of the Magic Hog Cranking Screw before I felt it stop fully.

Here is the finished “upstairs” integration with the Onyx intake adapter curing. The wastegate actuator hoses are also installed.

With the afternoon progressing, I went on a quest to collect basically every 2.5 inch exhaust pipe in a couple mile radius. I had to mate the turbo outputs to the funny dual stacks and I wasn’t going to do it very professionally.

I recovered the exhaust system I banged together for Snekvan, including the “Trumpet of Shame”, to reuse the output flanges and most other parts.

I’ll be honest, putting this exhaust adapter setup together took longer than installing the everything else. There were several awkward turns to make because of where the stacks are positioned. Also, I never really took a photo of them… but the 5″ diameter exhaust stacks are welded to a 5-to-4 inch adapter, which is welded to a 4-to-3 inch adapter, which is welded to a 3-to-2.5 inch adapter before making the turn.

This was simply more impetus to keep Vantruck’s eventual exhaust system to 3 inch tractor stacks or Corvette side pipes or something.

And here we are, both sides finished on a Sunday mid afternoon.

The last step of it all before bootup was wiring in the oil bilge pump into the ignition circuit. I used the same Key-on/Run circuit as Snekvan, though for Vantruck I want to figure out how to use the Accessory circuit or a timer relay so it doesn’t keep cycling the glow plugs.

Overall, I felt pretty validated that the “turbo install” will go smoothly. I specifically wanted to avoid invasive surgery as one of the requirements of the project, and I think this was accomplished. I only really had to drill 1 hole for the oil return fitting, and everything else cutting-shaping-grinding related was just fitting that exhaust up. I’m not aiming to ever sell these things as kits because my target market would be like 7 people (But we care… very much…) but hey, it’s contributing to the knowledge and shitpost base!

Alright! It’s time to go test drOH MY GOODNESS this thing is far quicker than it should ever be. It was a relatively low mile engine with great compression (it never failed to light off with what felt like less than one crank rotation). The Magic Hog Cranking Screw was bottomed out, and the wastegates were left from Snekvan at about 15 PSI (I never put the boost gauge back in to verify). I was easily contesting the interstate at-will, and the straight-piped exhaust stacks shooting out bald eagles and airstrikes whenever I went to pull out to pass simply added the corn-syrup-candied cherry to the whole experience.

This was truly an OBNOXIOUS, MENACING machine.

I tried dailying it a few times and just couldn’t stand the exhaust noise. This was good to confirm, because Vantruck definitely needs mufflers now. The deafening booming got old real fast. On top of that, my opinion is that a straight-piped IDI engine actually sounds like garbage. I’m not sure what property of the firing order or manifold design causes it, but they sound like they have a skip or missing cylinder.

One thing I noticed was that the weenie little “clicker’ fuel pump it came with just couldn’t keep up with the fuel demand any more. I’d have plenty of fueling for the first few seconds… then it felt like it runs out of steam. Friends told me to get a high-volume fuel pump and pressure regulator, and so I grabbed a gently used Holley vane pump off the orbiting cruft cloud of eBay, along with a matching regulator.

The regulator is quite important because fuel inlet pressure strongly affects the timing inside the distributor pump, and too high an inlet pressure basically causes it to lock timing too far advanced and the engine runs like trash. I dialed the regulator in for 6 PSI. You’re technically supposed to re-time the engine (by shifting the distributor pump) if the inlet pressure ever changes, but meh.

Here was another good lesson learned for Vantruck: I hate this fuel pump. Being made for racing applications, it’s very loud and draws a ton of power. I think for Vantruck I’ll stick to a larger capacity Facet pump, such as the one I put on Spool Bus, maybe two in parallel

You know exactly what’s happening next.

By mid-August, with the system having built up a lot more trust from me driving it to work and randomly to meetups and events and all… There was only one place left to go.

Yep, a three hour jaunt up to my favorite proving grounds. No van of mine is fully commissioned without this last important sea trial.

Besides it being thunderously loud the entire way there and back, I didn’t have a single problem. This is quite encouraging for the Vantruck build.

Econocrane was another squirrel-brained adventure that turned out to be a very net positive (??????) experience. I managed to make some incremental design changes to the turbo system, and found out that it installed from scratch very painlessly. I then ended up with a machine that was the very embodiment of American excess: Loud and obnoxious, menacing and antisocial, fuel-guzzling and emissions-spewing, built by one or more people with their hands and only one brain cell between them all. A rented brain cell.

Then I proceeded to do fuck-all with it all fall and winter. Econocrane served its purpose, so I just kept it stashed in the yard. And so, when the city came a-knocking, I decided it had to be culled.

Luckily, the Econocrane story has a happy ending. I was lucky to find a “wholesale buyer” in none other than the wonderful, fantastic Speedycop. The builder of many hilarious LeMons race vehicles, you probably have heard of his work if you’re knowledgeable of Car-tube and the world of shitbox racing.

Jeff and friends tripped down from his new Tennessee fortress and took Econocrane off my hands along with the two Citicar cheese wedges, which I’ve been sitting on since spring ’21 without a single post about. He has plenty of plans for these things, so stay tuned to his channel and page! Econocrane in particular will be a drivetrain donor for a terrifying new build he wants to do, which I’ll happily race with Vantruck because hopefully we’ll finish up around the same time.

The funny thing is, the Speedycop Walled City is located mere minutes from the Tail of the Dragon. With how many times a year I tend to end up there, it was almost like having a custody sharing agreement. I occasionally dropped by to say hello to the children:

On the next episode of Big Chuck’s Backlogged Vans: A quick return to robots as I took Sadbot to a heavyweight sportsman’s style tournament in Houston. Yeah, 2022 was an absurdly intense year! i”LL fInAlLy LeArN To rELaX AnD ChIlL OuT

Operation IDIocracy: THE TESTENING – Bench Run of the IDIot

When we last left off, it was 2 weeks before Dragon Con 2022 and I was hell-bent on getting the engine run on the stand and then packed away while I take an Overhaul Intermission. I wanted to make sure that as many subsystems were tested as possible. Part of those was the coolant loop.

What I didn’t want to do was hook up the radiator, with its 2 inch diameter hoses. Getting a few feet of that stuff to put it nearby was going to be really expensive, and all I wanted to do is make sure the whole coolant loop can fully purge itself with the thermostat cycling. It didn’t need to reach full flow.

So I made these … reducer fittings. They’re 3D printed from regular ol’ ABS. One end goes into the 2 inch and 2.25 inch radiator hoses, the other end is for 3/4″ diameter coolant hose. This reminded me a lot of making Anderson SB350 to XT-60 adapter cables or something. But, hopefully, with the whole system only running idle flow, it’ll be fine.

I hooked just the water pump up using a short belt I had which literally happened to be the right size. I’m pretty sure this is supposed to be a drill press belt or a lawn mower belt.

The test setup is shown here. I did not trust hanging the whole engine off just the stand, because these things shake the entire van when they power up and shut down. The plan was to spoon the crane into the stand, using it to unload the stand a little using the hoisting points on the intake manifold. This way, the crane is taking up some of the weight, spreading it across broader points of contact with the ground, and also countering the torque of the rotating parts from another point.

The electrical setup was very simple. These things only need the fuel shutoff solenoid held on to run, so I rigged a random E-Stop button into that circuit. The roller limit switch controls the starter motor. So basically I unclick the E-Stop and wham the limit switch to crank it.

There is no glow plug circuitry installed. Yes, I was going to Spicy Start my freshly rebuilt engine.

The rest of the test setup included a fuel pump running from a jug (the whole feed and return circuit is shown here with the black hoses) and a bucket full of water.

After some initial cranking to purge the air out of the injection lines, we’re ready for takeoff.

Starts out a little rocky as expected for maybe having some residual air in the fuel system, but otherwise it settled into idle smoothly. To be fair, this was the second run – after the first, I decided to mount the OEM exhaust pipe so as to keep the massive smoke cloud away from me just a bit.

I realized quickly the water pump setup would never prime if the reservoir was lower than it was, so I had to hang the bucket from the crane arm. In real life, the radiator water level is always above the pump.

I let the thing run long enough to hear the cold idle circuit shut off – this adjusts the timing slightly and lowers the idle RPM by letting the injection pump rest at a lower hard stop point.

It would be a long time before the thermostat opened enough to let everything purge out. A big surge of rusty water – emblematic of Snekvan’s neglected cooling system and me letting the whole thing sit for months – let me know that the water was now flowing.

The hilarious thing was that on one of my subsequent test runs, the battery clamp just straight up melted apart. These starters demand almost a thousand amps as they turn the ridiculously high compression over. This single little battery was not thrilled about it.

So what lessons were learned?

First, that I didn’t use NEARLY ENOUGH silicone. I think they assume you just buy the entire cartridge gun or something, because it began leaking oil from literally everywhere along the oil pan. The front and rear covers, in particular, seem to need GOBS of the stuff.

I’m used to depositing silicone in little 1/8″ wide weenie beads for Mikuvan, but you can clearly see those beads were BARELY making contact with anything!

So I had to undo both front and rear covers (involving removing the water pump again) and absolutely CRAM IT FULL of silicone.

(Check out that cavitation damage on the front cover plate, by the way. It’s not deep, but this is one source of problems that EOLs these engines. The cavitation will eventually erode through this plate and cause coolant to enter the crankcase)

Same process repeated for the rear cover. This involved disconnecting the engine from the stand and hoisting it with the crane. Glad I took the time to set that up, I suppose.

I also made minor adjustments in the seal positioning to get them to line up better with the end of the crankshaft. I think the seals I ordered might be a little different than the OEM design, since they stuck out in different ways.

Lastly, the engine was clearly not timed correctly – I just let the injection pump lay where it fell, when there are (at minimum) marks you have to line up. That is an operation I’ll leave for later, since you’re supposed to do it with the final fuel pressure as well.

At this point I had the setup pretty well tuned. A small, less than 1/2 second puff of the Spicy Air and it would light right off with barely one full turn of the crank!

This is the resulting poo water from letting it warm up. It looks like there’s chunks of something floating in it… I changed this water out twice before going “eh, it’ll deal”; on a scale from 1 to Flint, Michigan, it maybe ranked somewhere around Newark, NJ. It went from fresh black tea looking to just a little bit brown.

The IDIot Gurney

With a few days remaining before Dragon Con, I decided to go ahead and construct some infrastructure to make my life easier when I perform the install.

Most people install the transmission and engine separately, but I was daft enough after seeing how they came out such that I wanted to install the whole thing in ONE piece, instead of dealing with aligning them in-situ.

That will take some creativity, but more importantly, I had to assemble the engine and transmission first, and do so in way that I can then grab the assembly at its barycenter later on. I decided to make a small but heavy duty cart that cradles the engine and transmission. Here’s how that went down.

I started with some 2×10 wood arranged in a V-block shape. The IDI engine mounts are 90 degree inclusive on their mounting faces, so they will rest on the V.

Next is a frame made of 4×4 lumber and some of the highest capacity urethane casters Harbor Freight offered. The combined transmission and engine was going to be almost 1400 pounds. These casters combined aren’t rated for that, but I figured that they could probably tolerate some overloading and I was just needing the engine to be somewhat mobile so I could get it out of the way. Not like it had to be in service and rolling around a factory floor.

The width of the cart was dictated by how far in I could push the crane and still safely grab what I believe was the balance point of the engine + transmission assembly.

The wheels are bolted in with 3/8″ lag screws. The frame itself is held together with 8″ long lag screws driven into the ends!

My plan was to hoist the engine onto the cart, level it with the crane or a jack, and then build a rear support for the block.

To do this, though, I had to wrong-way scissor the engine stand and crane again. This arrangement was certainly a little precarious.

… Maybe a little too precarious. While shoving the thing forward one last time, I made the mistake of applying the force too high up on the crane body, and watch the whole thing very slowly tip its way onto the cart. No damage or anything, but it was like one of those “slow disaster in motion” videos!

Welp.

After repositioning things, I got the engine swung into a central position in the V-block and began levelling it with the floor jack.

I secured two 4×4 posts using screws driven in at a 45 degree angle to support the outer reaches of the exhaust manifolds.

The next day, it was transmission time. I read that you had to fill up the torque converter beforehand or it’ll take forever and ever to fill the transmission (as the oil pump has to otherwise do it for you). There’s a removable plug on the side of the torque converter to do this filling through. I pumped the transmission fluid salvaged out of Snekvan (and just about everything else I had with a C6/E4OD) right back into here. At the same time I went ahead and filled the oil pan itself as well, by pumping in through the dipstick hole.

I didn’t fill it much, because I didn’t want things to potentially leak out as I was manipulating it into Vantruck later (it’ll need to be highly angled forward and backward to wiggle in). But it should be enough to prevent a dry start.

I went ahead and mated the engine and transmission with the mounting bolts, then measured how far the tail housing was off the cart frame.

Some quick action with the miter saw later and the rear support is done. I’ll take some measurements of this thing and maybe back-CAD or back-document it later for everyone else’s amusement.

And here we have it. In one photo, both of my terrible time-consuming, money-burning, expensive facility-requiring hobbies.

Oh yeah! While I was on the woodworking binge those few days, I also whipped together a future Vantruck bed carrier cart. I won’t have the luxury of an all-concrete surface any more like the ol’ Vape Shop parking lot, because the Robot Trap House driveway is rather hilly and everything else that surrounds it is grass or dirt.

As a result, I made this cart with big pneumatic wheels so Vantruck’s bed can be craned onto it and then I can roll it into the back yard or something. This will come in handy in a few weeks/months time.

With Dragon Con 2022 having come and gone, and Overhaul’s 2022 season updates in full swing, Operation IDIocracy would pick up again near the end of Fall with some more infrastructure work and then Vantruck’s final disassembly…